over rev'd on my car
#81
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I wasn't worried about anything I've done, I've never over-reved the car. I was more curious about potential previous owner damage. I've owned it for 2 months so far now and put 5,000 miles on it so far (went on a long trip right away). Makes it scary to consider buying one used!
#82
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Originally Posted by Jsmply,Feb 23 2006, 03:27 AM
I've always wondered the same thing. Suppose he had a cracked retained, how long could a motor potentially run with a cracked retainer without showing symptoms?
I only ask b/c a lot of members here by there cars used, and I'm wondering if that is almost like a walking time bomb if the motor could die 6 months later. Especially since a pre-inspection is almost impossible as no seller is going to want to let you crack open their motor. How long/envolved is a typical visual retainer inspection?
I only ask b/c a lot of members here by there cars used, and I'm wondering if that is almost like a walking time bomb if the motor could die 6 months later. Especially since a pre-inspection is almost impossible as no seller is going to want to let you crack open their motor. How long/envolved is a typical visual retainer inspection?
#85
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Originally Posted by sohcpunk,Feb 23 2006, 04:25 PM
I wouldnt be suprise if this thread cause many members to go check their valve train. I have been above 9k plenty of times and will get them checked soon.
I think you are confusing hitting your rev limiter with a mechanical overrev.
a mechanical overrev is caused by downshifting to a gear that is too low for your speed. for example, shifting to 2nd gear while going 80mph and then letting out the clutch will do this.
if you just are accelerating through say 1st gear, and you dont shift soon enough and you hit the rev limiter, this is NOT a mechanical overrev, and you have NOT gone above the fuel cutoff, therefore there is no reason to run off to check your retainers.
mechanical overrevs should be a RARE/IF AT ALL type of situation. if you find yourself shifting into the wrong gear a lot and causing this kind of situation, you may want to consider going back to a car that has auto.
#86
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Originally Posted by downhil,Feb 23 2006, 12:20 PM
i suspect this is exactly what happened with my car. i bought it just over 1 year ago with 20k miles on it. it now has 35k, and was honda certified at the time of purchase with the 100k drivetrain warranty. i had a CEL come on out of the blue...no idle issues, no driveability issues. the engine miserably failed a leakdown test and was diagnosed with bent valves in cyl. 1 and 4. the dealership said that this is due to a misshift....the normal dealership rigamaroll on owner abuse. luckily in my case, i was able to prove that i had nothing to do with a missed shift and had the head replaced under warranty. i realize i was in the minority, but it is good to know that not all dealerships will instantly accuse the current owner.
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ok u all make a lot of sense...and i thank all of u for the advice...but im going to honda this weekend to get my retainers checked...if it comes out to b cracked...how much does it cost to repair?...and if it doesnt come out to b cracked...should i replace them anyways??
#88
Again, I would like to say this ---- there is something that is just not intuitive about the s2k's shifter. I had driven stick shift sports cars since 1964 and NEVER hit the wrong grear. NEVER. Then, when I got my s2k back in '01, I had a few problems with getting into an unintended gear --- such as 2nd instead of 4th. Fortunately, my pre-shift speed and revs were not such that I even got close to mechanical overrev. As I knew about mechanical overrev, and the Hell it could cause under the hood, this made me drive much more conservatively than I would have done otherwise.
In my case, I solved my problem (which clearly was not from lack of stick shift experience) by installing a Voodoo knob, thereby effectively shortening the shifter and making the centering spring more detectable to me as an aid in "knowing where I was shifting to." A Muz knob would do the same.
But this might not work for everybody. I think it is just a damn shame that the s2k does not have some sort of automatic braking mechanism to prevent mechanical overrev, because this very expensive problem is just TOO common to blame it on "the nut behind the wheel."
Thanks,
Richard
In my case, I solved my problem (which clearly was not from lack of stick shift experience) by installing a Voodoo knob, thereby effectively shortening the shifter and making the centering spring more detectable to me as an aid in "knowing where I was shifting to." A Muz knob would do the same.
But this might not work for everybody. I think it is just a damn shame that the s2k does not have some sort of automatic braking mechanism to prevent mechanical overrev, because this very expensive problem is just TOO common to blame it on "the nut behind the wheel."
Thanks,
Richard
#89
That's what shortening the effective shifter length does for me. I can feel the centering spring pulling the shifter toward 4th, and intuitively know I must pull against it to the right to get 6th. Indeed, even with the more apparent centering spring action that comes along with shortening he shifter, I still long for a stronger centering spring to "let me know where I am and where I am going."
Thanks,
Richard
Thanks,
Richard