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For those reading this thread for the first time, please note that the following windscreen mod was manufactured nearly two years ago as I'm editing this post. Since then, it has been supplanted by several digital versions with the current product being a completely self-contained unit (no more control boxes). Two units are suggested for S2000 windscreens. This thread is being kept alive basically because it still contains useful info, regardless of the product version.
MacGyver's Project #1: Multi-Color Windscreen Lights with Brake
For those uninitiated out there, see this thread for my trials and tribulations bringing it to the point we're at...
If you're not interested in reading through 11 pages of material (I actually find it enlightening to see what someone goes through in designing their own products at every step of the way), I will condense everything for you here...
These pics were taken with the windscreen sitting in front of a white cardboard box covered with a dark grey shirt. The reflection off of the shirt at the top of the screen gives an eerie kind of glow, but as you can see the etching is what really gives off the color. Please note: the color does not cycle...this is an animated gif that shows off SOME of the various colors possible.
Some more pics of installed system can be seen here...
1) Cool colors: The colors are completely adjustable using this control box...
...and every color in the rainbow is possible (supposedly), including white. The box shown at the bottom is the first prototype created once the etched boards first appeared at my doorstep, and the one above it is the production model with a snazzy sticker showing the red, green, and blue adjust points. A few minor modifications have been made to components and component values, but it's pretty much WYSIWYG.
2) A 3rd brakelight: If you hit the brakes, the screen will light up red regardless of the chosen color (this can be disabled by simply not connecting the brake wire).
3) No more broken windscreens: For those of you who have extended height windscreens (ala Rick's), the control box will not allow you to drop the softtop while the screen is tilted back, thereby preventing the breakage of the screen (this can also be disabled by simply not connecting the softtop wire).
4) It's removable: The windscreen is detachable from the control unit for those interested in removing the windscreen from the car (such as replacing the windscreen with a video camera for track sessions) through the use of a phone jack-style connector.
This is a high-quality design that has undergone extensive testing and redesign over the past 2-3 months. Professionally etched PC boards are used, and all installation and solder work is done strictly by me. Here's a CG version of part of the board...
Options:
1) The multi-color LEDs will be the default option...if nothing is specified, that is what you will receive.
2) However, I do offer ultraviolet (UV) LEDs as an option at no extra charge. UV sensitive paint is then used to either paint the back side of the screen or to fill in whatever design has been etched into the screen. This does not require an etched screen, but befriending someone with good artist skills (not me) is highly suggested. I will gladly fill simple etchings with your choice of UV color(s) for a nominal fee, but complicated etchings will only be painted by me for HEAVY fees (so find that friend ). A couple of options are available with the UV LEDs:
.....a) Day-Glo paints of various colors
.....b) Day-Glo paints that glow in the dark. The UV LEDs really charge the Day-Glo colors well, so they tend to glow for quite a while after the screen is turned off.
3) Transparent paint. This can be done with either type of LED, but the more logical choice would be the multi-color LEDs. Once dried, you can see through this paint, so it acts more like a thick dye rather than an opaque paint. This is a good choice for those interested in oversized etchings that cover the entire screen since you can still see what's behind you.
Installation: Until I can get some decent instruction pics put together, here is a rough outline of what's involved (I promise it's no more complicated than what I list here). A new hole will need to be drilled (obviously) in the secret compartment lid for the phone jack wire (A 1/2" bit works well here, but you can go smaller and widen with a file). The controller can be put just about anywhere you want...secret compartment, glove box, or even behind the seat (a seemingly favorite position for quite a few due to easy access but out of the way).
Coming out of the control box will be a grey cable with 4 wires. These 4 wires will need to be attached to various points in the car, so you'll need an extra spool of wire (I suggest 20-22 Guage wire...it's large enough to prevent electrical losses for longer runs but small enough to be easily bent into corners and such), a pair of wire crimpers, and several splice connectors (or use vampire taps which remove the need for wire crimpers).
1) Ground. That's an easy one...wherever a convenient ground connection is found. This means just about any nearby bolt as long as it screws into the car's body. Look for factory ground points where one bolt is holding a lot of black wires.
2) Power. The picture below is of the fuse box just above the driver's left knee. There are several potentially useful points to tie to in the box...(assuming I've got them labeled correctly) one is powered all of the time (spade D), one is powered while the key is turned (spade C), and the other is powered only when the lights are on (spade E). Connect the red wire to the appropriate male spade connector (you'll need a female spade connector) depending upon when you want the screen to be powered. If you would like the ability to turn the screen on at any time (not just when the key is in the ignition), connect the power wire directly to the battery through a switch. An easier option for those wanting the screen to come on when the headlights are on is to tap off the of the headlight wire that powers the taillights, license lights, side markers, etc...this is a redblack wire found in the same bundle as the brake wire below. The bundle itself can be found in the driver's sill near the back of the car.
3) Brake. This is optional and should be connected if you want the screen to light up red when you hit the brakes. If you look at the brake pedal (this will require you to stick your head under the dash) you'll notice a switch near the top. Coming out of that switch you should see a white/black wire that runs from the brake pedal switch to the rear of the car. Splice the control box's brake wire into the white/black wire (but do not completely cut it). A better location is again in the driver's side sill near the back of the car.
4) Softtop. This is optional and should be connected if you wish to automatically disable the softtop whenever the screen is tilted back (to prevent breakage). In the center console you will see a switch connected to the e-brake. One wire of the switch (green/white) will connect directly to ground...this is the connection you will BREAK COMPLETELY and connect to the yellow wire on the control box (connect the yellow wire on the control box to the portion of the green/white wire still connected to the e-brake switch, NOT to ground).
If you don't feel comfortable with these few wire taps, I suggest printing out these instructions, taking them to your local audio install shop and have them do it. I have tried to make the system as plug and play as possible, but unfortunately you can only take plug and play so far.
I'll try to get some install pics up in the next couple of days.
Simple color chart: A few have asked how to make a specific color. While I obviously can't tell you how to do this over email, I can at least get you part of the way there, and the rest should be easy to figure out. So, here are some basic combinations...
Purple = Red and Blue
Aqua = Green and Blue
Yellow = Red and Green
Legal mumbo jumbo: Please be aware that the law enforcement officials in your area may find this modification unacceptable, particularly when displaying colors such as blue and red. I offer no warranty, either expressed or implied, as to the applicability and/or legality of this product to your situation or locale.
<edit> May 18, 2005 -- I'm adding the following pics to help with installation of the latest edition of the Windscreen Lights. The pics come from the installation of a slightly older version, so although the boards may look slightly different, the process remains the same.
The LEDs and PC board require a small amount of the screen be removed so that the LED will sit flush with the screen's edge. The board is then glued into place with Goop or clear silicone caulk. Some of the internal ribbing also needs to be removed to allow the wire to be installed under the screen itself. Once the screen is screwed back into place, there will be plenty of friction between the wire and screen to hold it in place. Only one board is shown, but simply mirror the procedure for the other side.
A small loop of wire is the only visible evidence the mechanism has been modified. Run the wire out the back of the hinged mechanism and down through the bottom of the mechanism's mounting plate, as shown.
The cabling comes through the secret compartment lid and through the side wall of the secret compartment itself. There are cleaner ways of doing this, but it doesn't get in my way and was easy to do. Follow the wire colors listed above for final installation/connection, which can be found in the driver's door sill wire bundle.
I wanted to see (and at the same time, perhaps, throw a suggestion out to any interested parties on the thread) if you knew who could etch the logo into the screen? As cool as having just the perimeter light up as you have so deftly presented, the logo is what really makes it 'pop' so to speak. Just my $.02.
(I know this was mentioned in the 11 page thesis , but I wanted to present this again here.)
Actually, I would remove the glowing perimeter if I could, but it's a downside to using materials like lexan and plexiglass. One thing that should be noted is this mod is somewhat impractical if your windscreen is not etched.
I know it's difficult to weed through all of the prose to find the info that you want, but I did mention a little something in there about etching...full info will be in the PM once your number comes up.
Looking forward to my PM from you . But you go right ahead and do the "AOK" thing with the locals. I'd just as soon wanna know that its 110% before it ships to me.
07-23-2003 | 12:34 PM
). A couple of options are available with the UV LEDs:
- 
, but I wanted to present this again here.)
