Need some advice on an intake and exhaust.
06-03-2006 | 12:11 PM
#21
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Joined: Feb 2005
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There is no tuning involved in replacing some bolts and a few screws to replace your intake and exhaust. Period.
On some cars it is important to balance the flow of your intake and exhaust system when going aftermarket to order to maximize gains ove the rpm range as well as specific ranges in which you wish to increase, top end, midrange for DD, whate ever. Since our intake and header systems are very efficient, this is not an issue until you've spent deep 4 figures on modifications.
Reliability? On intake and exhaust? It's so obvious many of you guys haven't seen a race track in your lives it's dissapointing. The only reliability concern you may have is sticking a silencer to negate your 800$ exhaust's gains causing heat build-up and cracking some welds at your muffler.
"Racing has a lot to do with engineering."
What kind of blande, useless comment is that? Everything that TOUCHES or is even burned up in or used to lubricate a car has a lot to do with engineering.
"For example, you can have a 67 Mustang with 300hp and that runs like crap. People will still be ooing and ahing at it. But little do you know that if you tuned it right, you could get another 50hp out of it which may shave off a couple tenths."
67 Mustang? What are you talking about? s2k's that run like crap don't need bolt-ons, they need sparkplugs or 91 octane. This isn't a 40 year old mustang, almost the complete opposite. These cars produce 240hp out of a 2.0ltr engine, not 300hp out of 6ltrs. They are already 'finely' tuned to a degree that makes improving on it expensive. Much of the "engineering" was done at Honda where it SHOULD be.
"Just because you have an S2000 doesn't make you a complete badass, maybe just half of one. A finely tuned S2000 makes you the complete badass. That is my take on the subject. "
No one here acted like a 'badass'. You are the only one coming across cocky and everyone else is going out of their way to help you. Every s2k that is in good running condition is finely tuned. These tangents amaze me.
I may come across as harsh, but I don't care. I see enough of this between here and the NSX forums to keep my tolerance very low.
My suggestion is to use your vast tuning knowledge to interpret the 100's of dyno's posted here using the 'search' function which is what you should have done in the 1st place.
On some cars it is important to balance the flow of your intake and exhaust system when going aftermarket to order to maximize gains ove the rpm range as well as specific ranges in which you wish to increase, top end, midrange for DD, whate ever. Since our intake and header systems are very efficient, this is not an issue until you've spent deep 4 figures on modifications.
Reliability? On intake and exhaust? It's so obvious many of you guys haven't seen a race track in your lives it's dissapointing. The only reliability concern you may have is sticking a silencer to negate your 800$ exhaust's gains causing heat build-up and cracking some welds at your muffler.
"Racing has a lot to do with engineering."
What kind of blande, useless comment is that? Everything that TOUCHES or is even burned up in or used to lubricate a car has a lot to do with engineering.
"For example, you can have a 67 Mustang with 300hp and that runs like crap. People will still be ooing and ahing at it. But little do you know that if you tuned it right, you could get another 50hp out of it which may shave off a couple tenths."
67 Mustang? What are you talking about? s2k's that run like crap don't need bolt-ons, they need sparkplugs or 91 octane. This isn't a 40 year old mustang, almost the complete opposite. These cars produce 240hp out of a 2.0ltr engine, not 300hp out of 6ltrs. They are already 'finely' tuned to a degree that makes improving on it expensive. Much of the "engineering" was done at Honda where it SHOULD be.
"Just because you have an S2000 doesn't make you a complete badass, maybe just half of one. A finely tuned S2000 makes you the complete badass. That is my take on the subject. "
No one here acted like a 'badass'. You are the only one coming across cocky and everyone else is going out of their way to help you. Every s2k that is in good running condition is finely tuned. These tangents amaze me.
I may come across as harsh, but I don't care. I see enough of this between here and the NSX forums to keep my tolerance very low.
My suggestion is to use your vast tuning knowledge to interpret the 100's of dyno's posted here using the 'search' function which is what you should have done in the 1st place.
06-03-2006 | 02:08 PM
#22
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,287
Likes: 1
From: UCF Knights!
Originally Posted by zbrewha863,Jun 3 2006, 04:21 AM
S2KUSMC, I see what you are saying and you are correct -- different companys engineer parts differently -- do not listen to what people like afwfjustin say about midrange not mattering, if you drive your daily it is more useful more of the time than top-end power.
And thanks for bashing us JDM guys wildcardtrd, I have a Spoon snorkel, Spoon filter, and gutted intake box and made 5rwhp over stock. Consistently, dyno'd correctly. From talking to Spoon reps though, they told me that they try to engineer their parts more for top-end than midrange; for instance, there is a very popular thread where versionJDM is at 221rwhp (peak) on a Mustang dyno with basically just a K&N drop-in filter, test pipe and Spoon exhaust, but only at like 138lbs/ft of torque.
Good luck with your search, I hope that you figure out something useful.
And thanks for bashing us JDM guys wildcardtrd, I have a Spoon snorkel, Spoon filter, and gutted intake box and made 5rwhp over stock. Consistently, dyno'd correctly. From talking to Spoon reps though, they told me that they try to engineer their parts more for top-end than midrange; for instance, there is a very popular thread where versionJDM is at 221rwhp (peak) on a Mustang dyno with basically just a K&N drop-in filter, test pipe and Spoon exhaust, but only at like 138lbs/ft of torque.
Good luck with your search, I hope that you figure out something useful.
I was merely pointing out different strokes for different folks, thats all I've been following versionJDM's 230rwhp thread since day one
06-03-2006 | 04:07 PM
#23
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 5,423
Likes: 1
From: Seattle, WA
[QUOTE=zbrewha863,Jun 3 2006, 03:21 AM] do not listen to what people like afwfjustin say about midrange not mattering, if you drive your daily it is more useful more of the time than top-end power.
06-03-2006 | 04:14 PM
#24
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 5,423
Likes: 1
From: Seattle, WA
Originally Posted by wildcardtrd,Jun 2 2006, 07:54 PM
If you can't afford Toda's ITB's, you can wait for the fuji racing ones like I am
06-03-2006 | 04:15 PM
#25
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 10,418
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From: Seattle
I'll sum it all up to help you. Bolt ons wont do much non FI.
If you want most power, go with an AEM v2 or Comptech CAI intaje. 3-4HP. Others will do the same or just a little less but those well known companies.
Exhaust: Nothing out there is really great for dual. Most duals gain you 0-2HP. Mostly for weight savings. I hear Js Sparrow is the best pwoer for dual maybe up to 4 or 5HP. I have that now. I use to have fujitsobo.
For most power get a single. Probably 4-8HP on average gain.
get gears also
If you want most power, go with an AEM v2 or Comptech CAI intaje. 3-4HP. Others will do the same or just a little less but those well known companies.
Exhaust: Nothing out there is really great for dual. Most duals gain you 0-2HP. Mostly for weight savings. I hear Js Sparrow is the best pwoer for dual maybe up to 4 or 5HP. I have that now. I use to have fujitsobo.
For most power get a single. Probably 4-8HP on average gain.
get gears also
06-03-2006 | 04:30 PM
#26
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 5,423
Likes: 1
From: Seattle, WA
Originally Posted by SilverKnight,Jun 3 2006, 07:15 PM
I'll sum it all up to help you. Bolt ons wont do much non FI.
If you want most power, go with an AEM v2 or Comptech CAI intaje. 3-4HP. Others will do the same or just a little less but those well known companies.
Exhaust: Nothing out there is really great for dual. Most duals gain you 0-2HP. Mostly for weight savings. I hear Js Sparrow is the best pwoer for dual maybe up to 4 or 5HP. I have that now. I use to have fujitsobo.
For most power get a single. Probably 4-8HP on average gain.
get gears also
If you want most power, go with an AEM v2 or Comptech CAI intaje. 3-4HP. Others will do the same or just a little less but those well known companies.
Exhaust: Nothing out there is really great for dual. Most duals gain you 0-2HP. Mostly for weight savings. I hear Js Sparrow is the best pwoer for dual maybe up to 4 or 5HP. I have that now. I use to have fujitsobo.
For most power get a single. Probably 4-8HP on average gain.
get gears also
And yes, gears make driving the car much more fun!
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