Thrawn

I was looking into getting E-code headlights for better output and a city light, but they're damn pricey. So plan B was to buy a city light kit and disable that orange parking light. Then decided that I didn't want to drill into a perfectly new headlight. Later, I stumbled on the DRL install FAQ: DRL FAQ

So why not use the high beam as a giant city light? And that's what I did. Instead of wiring the power to the ignition, I tapped it into the parking light wire...



(above: Green wire to the left was tapped into the parking light wire. Headlight repair harness in front of that, which was bought to avoid hacking the original harness, which is to the right with the yellow crimp tabs.)



(above: DRL Module and relay with everything connected)



(above: Ran a wire along the existing shroud to the other headlight)



(above: Cluster of wires from the headlight harness to the DRL module and relay)



(above: Cleaned it up)



(above: Needs to be tidied up a bit more. Looking to seal the module and relay with heat shrink)



(above: Done)


I tried to avoid connecting directly to the "+" on the battery, but I was unable to remove the phillips screw in the fuse box that runs the line to the "+" on the battery. Is that screw glued in? It started to strip slightly, so I stopped.

The only issue I have is the 5 second delay on the module when power is supplied. I totally forgot about that and should have asked Hamsar if there was a module without the delay. As a result, when you click your remote, the front lights do not blink, only the rears. To fix this, I want to connect that remote chirp to the signal lights and not parking lights. Anyone know how to do this?

Spa_Ap1

Won't you get in trouble and blind everybody else running around with your brights on all the time?

dmz

If it's like any other factory DRL, the brights should be running at about 40% brightness. It will look yellowish, not too bright.

darkfx

Thrawn

Yup, the output is just like the factory DRL, so no blinding people...