Also a mod I was interested in.

I am starting to think that the best option is to unhook the passenger positive wire completely (leave the ground) and run a spliced wire from the drivers positive to a relay. Set up the relay using a fused wire (maybe 10-15A) from the battery and the drivers positive wire will trigger the relay and unlock the passengers side.
This is the only solution I can think of off the top of my head. I haven't touched the system and don't have a manual but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Just have to figure out which wires do what and what size fuse to use.

 

Want some cheese with that whine?

 

if you guys are really interested, you can try what i suggested and let us know how it turned out.

"ive asked this question too. ive looked at the keyless entry wiring diagrams and thought of splicing the driver and passenger unlock wires together. i tried quickly bridging the two (lazy method), but that only resulted in frying my bridge wire because it shorted out. so the passenger wire needs to be removed from the jumper. since i dont like cutting factory wires, i want to build a separate jumper splice to join the driver side and passenger side wires together. but this i havent gotten around to since i cant find another connector from another vehicle in the junkyard that has the same sized terminal connectors. it seems honda uses unique terminals for every car.... "

here is the wiring diagrams too. im basically saying combine wires 7 and 18 and insert in 7.


its located in the driver footwell, like around the left knee. a little up and behind the panel.


maybe this conversation should just be moved to the electronics forum.

 

looks like cut wire 18 and splice it onto 7 should work...?

 

yep.

i just dont like cutting factory harnesses, so i want to make my own jumper.

if you or anyone else doesnt mind, give it a try and let us know.

 

okay just did it, it works b

ut i think the right that should be done would be cut wire 17 and splice into wire 9, as the negative wire is what triggers the locks.

with the way i just did it, cut wire 18 and splice into 7, it wants to unlock the passenger door again when i press the button the second time.

either way will work i believe, and took me all about 1 minute

Thanks for the diagram!!!

 

thanks for testing it thonda.

im not sure why you think its best to just ground out 9 with 17.

and i dont see how the passenger door lock wanting to unlock itself again is a bad thing. the whole point is to not have to double click the remote anyway.

actually, to me, the point is to not have to reach over to the passenger side from inside the cockpit because the passenger door didnt unlock in the first place and theres no other button to unlock it, and even the keyless remote is locked out of working while in the ignition.

anyway, thanks for confirming it worked. now if i can just figure out where to get an extra set of those terminals so i can make a jumper kit and not cut my harness, id be happy.

 

btw, the other thing i plan on doing is using the "horn" output #3 to power a piezo buzzer. because i HATE the sound of the actual horn as a confirmation of the car being locked. its such a horrible sound and makes the car sound so cheap. i mean even camry's come with a nice electronic tone when you lock and unlock the car.

for now, i just removed the horn connector...

 

So 17 with 9 is the best option? I will try it tommorrow.

 

If you hold down the unlock button, it will unlock both doors in one shot.