I bought coilovers for the adjustibility. I love them. For my next build they will be dialed in properly since I plan to track my car here and then.

 

Awesome information guys. I wasn't aware that they came with the non adjustable Showa's.

I will probably eventually upgrade to a full bodied coilover. My current car is on coilovers and I love them.

Thanks alot MX5

 

I am about to install the AP1 Showa shocks with Eibach springs very soon onto my AP2. The springs are already mounted and ready to go. just have to swap out coilovers. I haven't heard anything about flipping CV buckets. I have no idea what that even is. Is it difficult or necessary? Pics would be a great help to me.

 

+1.. more info on "flipping CV buckets" would be great.

 

Don't worry about flipping the buckets unless you start getting vibration after the drop. If it turns out that you have vibration, THEN we'll worry about instructions and pictures. If you take a look at the shop manual or an IPB it should be pretty obvious. It's a messy job, but again, don't worry about it for now.

Why did you decide to go with AP1 shocks? Are you also going to be using the Pro Kit (which was designed for the AP1)? What are you trying to achieve?

 

Are you going to be tracking on racing rubber, or the OEM tires?
(I'm just curious. )

I need a little more adjustment for faster autocross courses, and the Gendron FSB with the thin walled center section is perfect for the rest of the setup. I also need a big ugly (and adjustable) wing for track days, but I really hate the idea of putting a wing on the car.

Are you going to do the corner weighting and suspension tuning yourself, or will you be getting some "expert" help?

 

Hahaha, OK, OK ...

Here's a picture of the differential; The arrow points to the flange that bolts to the CV joint cup. Note that you DO NOT have to remove the diff to flip the cups.



Now here's where the diff came from, with an arrow pointing to the flange that bolts up to the flange on the differential. The CUP is marked with an X (X marks the spot ).



To flip the buckets, you disconnect the axles at the flange, dissemble the CV joints (one on each side of the diff), then reassemble putting each of the two cups on the opposite side of the differential.

Does that help any?

 

You flip the CV joints because the spider bearings in them actually wear out. Each side spins in a different direction, so when you reverse (flip) them the its kind of like their spinning reversed, but their not. I'm not sure how else to explain it.

 

Not at all. I'm still debating on sizes. I might start with 265's. I really want to run 285's, but the car isn't lowered yet nor dialed in and I'm not sure if 285's will clear with the rims and fenders yet.

As for the suspension, I'm going to have a shop dial it in once I lower it and have it where I want it at. I need to buy suspension, that's the next big purchase after the ITB's. I'm going with Motons most likely.

 

I agree I had skunk2's on my car for a total of 6days before buying a set of coilovers. Save yourself the headache and save up for an adjustable set.