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Why dont you simply measure how much oil was in the engine? Pour the oil wich you have changed out in a empty Jug, prefered with a scale, and you could actually see and measure how much oil really was in the engine.
This eliminates all the guessing.
I did mention that I would do that in another reply. I meant to do it yesterday but I got caught up with some stuff at home and couldn't get around to it . But I'll be posting the pics and videos and anything extra I find out today after I get off work.
Run an oil sample of the oil in the engine now. Just drain a little sample.
That may help determine any specific metal wear.
Good luck with your car!
Yeah you just need to tell the lab how many miles are on the sample so they can adjust for expected numbers. However, I am not sure if there is minimum number of miles to get a good measurement from. But could email Blackstone and ask them that. I am sure the OP is not driving the car right now so likely not many miles on that oil yet
I did mention that I would do that in another reply. I meant to do it yesterday but I got caught up with some stuff at home and couldn't get around to it . But I'll be posting the pics and videos and anything extra I find out today after I get off work.
Sorry, my bad. I have skiped it while reading the thread.
Another common issue that may be worth checking is to determine whether the catalytic converter is broken or clogged.
That would cause loss of engine power, unwillingness to rev, and rattling.
I had this issues with a 98 Forester that had a failed head gasket and clogged or ruined the cat. After the replacement it was bogging like crazy and had lost a lot of power. Replacing the cat fixed the horrible power loss.
Well the key on, engine off test will show if the indicators are working. CEL, OIL and BAT lights should illuminate right when you turn on the key. If not, then they may not be working correctly.
On the high revving, slow acceleration (And possibly that shudder/shaking one) you may have a clutch issues. If the RPM is climbing but the car is not accelerating, that is typically the clutch not engaging fully. Either worn, damaged or a hydraulic issue. That of course would not have anything to do with the engine oil level.
On that shaking while driving, a bad clutch could still be the issue (clutch having engagement issues and chattering/shuddering) but hard to say for sure without being in the car.
UPDATE:
The lights came on in accessory mode so all is good there.
I got videos of driving and idling. I'll have to post the driving videos in pieces.
Trying to driving was horrendously slow. I was able to reach 35mph but hitting the gas in third let off a horrible burning smell. I believe it was the clutch (it's been a while since I had smelled it).
I checked to see if the oil had any metal particles/looked glittery and it seemed fine but I'm posting a picture just in case since I've never seen metal in oil before.
UPDATE:
The lights came on in accessory mode so all is good there.
I got videos of driving and idling. I'll have to post the driving videos in pieces.
Trying to driving was horrendously slow. I was able to reach 35mph but hitting the gas in third let off a horrible burning smell. I believe it was the clutch (it's been a while since I had smelled it).
I checked to see if the oil had any metal particles/looked glittery and it seemed fine but I'm posting a picture just in case since I've never seen metal in oil before.
So, I tried to upload the videos and neither of them would upload. Like I said, I'm new to using the forum as a poster so any assistance on that would be great too.
Hopefully this car survives his ownership. 
10-03-2024 | 05:53 AM
