Gernby

Are you guys able to generate wheel spin on concrete, or just on asphalt? All the roads I have around here are concrete.

iLikeBeer

I am able to burn out a little tiny bit. Halfway between a burn out and a squeak on concrete.

THRILLR

I wanna retro-fit to cable-type clutch. Chirping 3rd gear with ease in a 108hp CRX si is great. The honda hydrolic clutchs just feel weak to me, also, they grab to high. I like it grabbiing right at the floor, and frankly, ive never been in a honda with a hydrolic cltuch that grabs low enough. Mike

Gernby

There are two ways to adjust the clutch pedal. I adjusted my clutch to engage / disengage at the top of its stroke, but it would be just as easy to make it at the floor. You can set the total stroke to be really short with a low engagement point. I put mine at the top so that I could reduce the 2nd gear grinding by making sure that the clutch disengaged as soon as I started pushing in the clutch. It also increases the amount that the clutch separates from the pressure plate.

THRILLR

i know of the adjusting of hydrolic cltuchs, (the nut on top of the pedal right?) If i do adjust to grab lower, will it "burn" the cltuch because the pressur eplate and disc are so close? Are there any negeitive side affects to have it grab lower? Mike

Gernby

I think the clutch switch on top of the pedal (with a lock nut) is the one that you are referring to. It must be adjusted in conjunction with the master cylinder push rod (with a lock nut) on the back of the pedal. These two can be screwed in and out to change the pedal height and stroke.

I can't see any reason why anyone would want to lower the engagement point, unless they were also going to lower the pedal height by the same amount. Why would you want to have to push the clutch pedal 3~4 inches without it actually doing anything? I wanted the clutch to start disengaging at the very moment that I started pushing it in. If you put the engagement point at the bottom of the pedal stroke, you will have a very short window of opportunity to make the gear shift while the clutch is disengaged. It seems like you would have to wait until your foot actually hits the floor before beginning the shift to the next gear. If you miss it, you'll get a grind. Adjusting it higher in the pedal stroke, make it possible to begin the shift into the next gear as soon as you start pushing the pedal in. Most the time, I've got it into the next gear before the pedal hits the floor.

Honda Racer

[QUOTE]Originally posted by rjm161
[B]I agree with JoeD

RedCelica

wouldnt all of this have something to do with the LSD. Hell the reason you guys have to dump it at 7000 rpms or so is not because the lack of torque nor the RWD...it that nice honda LSD...it doesn't want you to loose traction. Now if you put enough power to the wheels both will spin equally. Ya'll shouldn't complain because your getting traction. Just my .02 I could be wrong.

Pixsurguy

[QUOTE]Originally posted by stockae92
[B]

really .. ??

Gernby

Who's complaining about too much traction? We are discussing techniques for getting a decent launch. The S2000 has to generate some wheel spin, or the engine will bog down. If you want to get a good launch, you have to keep the RPMs up in the power band.