I'm more interested in straight line power that I can start building on right now... you guys have any thoughts on the 07's?

Is the bigger engine the reason why their arn't ECU's out for it yet? What did the ECU's typicaly net on the older engines?

I understand this wasn't built to be a drag car, but its just a replacement for an SUV that I got tired of so I want to build it out nicely.

An FI kit will is in the future of the car, but not so soon... want to get tired of the stock power first -- I'm in break-in now until 500 miles.

 

They already replied, and yes they are right... MY07 for example stands for Model Year... though sometimes, and what I usually understand it as is "Manufacture Year" because a car may be built in 07, but be classified as an 08... for example.

 

^ thank you Fantasma!
and what are "bumps" for??

 

I wouldn't listen to modding advice from someone unfamiliar with "MY."

Sell the 07, buy a used AP1 for $20k and put the rest into FI. Those are the only real performance gains you'll get unless you're JDM $$.

DBW in 06-07 takes some work to either be CARB legal or to bypass the ECU.

If you were going to void your warranty anyway, why pay more for a car that's more difficult to mod? A few people have bought AP1s with < 5000 miles on them for ~$20k in the last month.

For a stock daily driver, MY 07 all the way.
For "performance," AP1 with 9k redline + boost makes the "I have more tq" argument of AP2 moot.

 

bump means to bump the thread to the top.

 

MY = model year, as previously stated, and is used to differentiate between a year when the car was manufactured and the "model year" that it's supposed to be (to avoid confusion when someone says "I have an 04 S2000")

Bump is used to "bump" a thread back to the top of the list (the threads are sorted in order of most recent reply), and is usually used when someone is asking a question or has a request, and wants the rest of the community to see their thread (before it falls all the way down and "disappears") so that they can get an answer.

As for the OP's actual question, I wouldn't touch it for now (I'm in the same situation as you), and this is doubly true if you plan on going FI anyway. First step is to mod the driver and get a real understanding of how your car works.

N/A mods right now are just not a great bang for their buck if you are going to eventually go FI, where the real power is. You can spend $3,000+ on intake, headers, exhaust, etc. and gain 10-15 whp, versus spending $6,000+ on a turbocharger and gaining 100+ whp.

Don't sell the car. FI support is better for earlier years, but members have supercharged and turbocharged even 06 and 07s, and more kits are on the horizon. For example, the Greddy kit is coming out for the 06/07, is ~$5000, puts 300 to the wheels, and requires no tuning. And CARB certification is being worked on.

Take your time, save up your money, get comfortable with your car, then go mod crazy! From what I've heard, once the bug bites, you can't turn back!

 

As everyone else said...FI is the only way to get good gains. Intake and exhaust might add 3-5whp together depending on what you buy. A 70mm single exhaust might get you 8-10whp if you are lucky (and there are some who have been lucky enough to see that kind of gain). trade off is that it is very loud.

The stock airbox is very good, but a spoon or spoon knock-off snorkle can help reduce heat soak effects. The AEM V2 intake might get you 2-3whp but it has risks if you live in an area with rain (the filter is low to the ground and can suck water, which can destroy the engine...and some have)

As far as the ECU goes...only the early MY06 cars have an ECU flash available from Hondata. MY00-05 don't have ECUs that can be reflashed and when the ECU firmware was updated in late MY06 and for MY07, Hondata didn't bother to change their flash, so it isn't compatable.

MY00-05 can repalce the oem ECU with a standalone AEM EMS ECU and see some very decent gains (15-18whp)...but the EMS has to be tuned so results are very dependent on the tuner's skills. I doubt an EMS is CARB legal. The cost with tuning can be $2000-$2500...so FI is still the best bang for the buck.

Sorry...if you bought the s2k for tuning & modding and straight line performance, you probably bought the wrong car. If you bought it for canyon carving, autox & track days...you bought the right car.

 

you bought the wrong car

 

[QUOTE=negcamber,Jul 14 2007, 10:03 AM] As far as the ECU goes...only the early MY06 cars have an ECU flash available from Hondata.

 

See first quote in sig...