Just bought an red 2001 S2k
#1
Just bought an red 2001 S2k
Hello all. Just bought a red 2001 Red s2k with black 17 Interlagos rims. Otherwise stock. Will post pics soon. I was wondering what I should get replaced on it in terms of preventing future known problems. Is it just retainers and banjo bolts? How much would a mechanic charge for this.
#6
#7
If the car never experienced a mechanical overrev the retainers won't need to be replaced. The problem you have is that you don't know if the previous owner overreved it and didn't tell you. At minimum you should pop the head cover off and look at the retainers to see if any of them appear to be sunken.
I have over 400,000 miles on my '03 and still have the original retainers. I know that it has never been overreved, and I also know that I can cause more problems if I pull the cams off and don't put everything back just right. "If it ain't broke....."
I have over 400,000 miles on my '03 and still have the original retainers. I know that it has never been overreved, and I also know that I can cause more problems if I pull the cams off and don't put everything back just right. "If it ain't broke....."
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s2kfast (09-17-2019)
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#8
Few things:
- Valve Adjustment, these are done routinely. But since you can't be sure about the previous owner's habits, treat it like an oil change, get it done for a the peace of mind.
- AP2 Retainers and Keepers. It's not necessary, it's another peace of mind thing. And the AP2 retainers are stronger, and they will give you a few extra hundred RPM's of cushion in the event of an over-rev.
- Listen for the TCT noise. No point in swapping out the Honda TCT unless it starts making noise. But once it does start making noise, it's not going to get better.
- Check your oil level. These motors do burn oil. I check mine every 500 miles, and I definitely top it off every 1,000 miles. And my motor doesn't burn a lot of oil compared to others. (still, check it regularly)
- Check your suspension bushings and other rubbery joints. Even if your car is lower mileage, these cars are older now and rubber harden over time.
You mentioned banjo bolts. Of course the AP2 banjo bolts are designed better. However, the general consensus is that, unless you FI your car, and/or the car is your dedicated track car with a ton of track days, you will see little benefits to the new revised banjo bolts. Also, a good mechanics (and you definitely should find a good trustworthy mechanic) will tell you what is necessary, what is good to have, and what is a complete waste of time and money. Look around the forum, the AP2 banjo bolts uptake among us AP1 folks are 50/50.
Lastly, believe it or not, this is one of the few cars where the OEM stuff is actually the best replacement stuff.
- Valve Adjustment, these are done routinely. But since you can't be sure about the previous owner's habits, treat it like an oil change, get it done for a the peace of mind.
- AP2 Retainers and Keepers. It's not necessary, it's another peace of mind thing. And the AP2 retainers are stronger, and they will give you a few extra hundred RPM's of cushion in the event of an over-rev.
- Listen for the TCT noise. No point in swapping out the Honda TCT unless it starts making noise. But once it does start making noise, it's not going to get better.
- Check your oil level. These motors do burn oil. I check mine every 500 miles, and I definitely top it off every 1,000 miles. And my motor doesn't burn a lot of oil compared to others. (still, check it regularly)
- Check your suspension bushings and other rubbery joints. Even if your car is lower mileage, these cars are older now and rubber harden over time.
You mentioned banjo bolts. Of course the AP2 banjo bolts are designed better. However, the general consensus is that, unless you FI your car, and/or the car is your dedicated track car with a ton of track days, you will see little benefits to the new revised banjo bolts. Also, a good mechanics (and you definitely should find a good trustworthy mechanic) will tell you what is necessary, what is good to have, and what is a complete waste of time and money. Look around the forum, the AP2 banjo bolts uptake among us AP1 folks are 50/50.
Lastly, believe it or not, this is one of the few cars where the OEM stuff is actually the best replacement stuff.
Last edited by Say Chi Sin Lo; 09-16-2019 at 09:25 PM.
#9
If the car never experienced a mechanical overrev the retainers won't need to be replaced. The problem you have is that you don't know if the previous owner overreved it and didn't tell you. At minimum you should pop the head cover off and look at the retainers to see if any of them appear to be sunken.
I have over 400,000 miles on my '03 and still have the original retainers. I know that it has never been overreved, and I also know that I can cause more problems if I pull the cams off and don't put everything back just right. "If it ain't broke....."
I have over 400,000 miles on my '03 and still have the original retainers. I know that it has never been overreved, and I also know that I can cause more problems if I pull the cams off and don't put everything back just right. "If it ain't broke....."
Few things:
- Valve Adjustment, these are done routinely. But since you can't be sure about the previous owner's habits, treat it like an oil change, get it done for a the peace of mind.
- AP2 Retainers and Keepers. It's not necessary, it's another peace of mind thing. And the AP2 retainers are stronger, and they will give you a few extra hundred RPM's of cushion in the event of an over-rev.
- Listen for the TCT noise. No point in swapping out the Honda TCT unless it starts making noise. But once it does start making noise, it's not going to get better.
- Check your oil level. These motors do burn oil. I check mine every 500 miles, and I definitely top it off every 1,000 miles. And my motor doesn't burn a lot of oil compared to others. (still, check it regularly)
- Check your suspension bushings and other rubbery joints. Even if your car is lower mileage, these cars are older now and rubber harden over time.
You mentioned banjo bolts. Of course the AP2 banjo bolts are designed better. However, the general consensus is that, unless you FI your car, and/or the car is your dedicated track car with a ton of track days, you will see little benefits to the new revised banjo bolts. Also, a good mechanics (and you definitely should find a good trustworthy mechanic) will tell you what is necessary, what is good to have, and what is a complete waste of time and money. Look around the forum, the AP2 banjo bolts uptake among us AP1 folks are 50/50.
Lastly, believe it or not, this is one of the few cars where the OEM stuff is actually the best replacement stuff.
- Valve Adjustment, these are done routinely. But since you can't be sure about the previous owner's habits, treat it like an oil change, get it done for a the peace of mind.
- AP2 Retainers and Keepers. It's not necessary, it's another peace of mind thing. And the AP2 retainers are stronger, and they will give you a few extra hundred RPM's of cushion in the event of an over-rev.
- Listen for the TCT noise. No point in swapping out the Honda TCT unless it starts making noise. But once it does start making noise, it's not going to get better.
- Check your oil level. These motors do burn oil. I check mine every 500 miles, and I definitely top it off every 1,000 miles. And my motor doesn't burn a lot of oil compared to others. (still, check it regularly)
- Check your suspension bushings and other rubbery joints. Even if your car is lower mileage, these cars are older now and rubber harden over time.
You mentioned banjo bolts. Of course the AP2 banjo bolts are designed better. However, the general consensus is that, unless you FI your car, and/or the car is your dedicated track car with a ton of track days, you will see little benefits to the new revised banjo bolts. Also, a good mechanics (and you definitely should find a good trustworthy mechanic) will tell you what is necessary, what is good to have, and what is a complete waste of time and money. Look around the forum, the AP2 banjo bolts uptake among us AP1 folks are 50/50.
Lastly, believe it or not, this is one of the few cars where the OEM stuff is actually the best replacement stuff.
#10
Remind your "excellent independent mechanic" the S2000's valves are set with the engine cold and should be set to the high end of the spec as they tighten in use.
Fit a full set of new gaskets, including the spark plug gaskets. We adjusted the valves on an '02 last month and the spark plug gaskets were so hard and inflexible we had to drive them out with tools. Gasket set is inexpensive. While you're in there you may as well fit new spark plugs they're cheap too.
Full fluid change will give you piece of mind. That includes coolant and brake/clutch fluid. This is all easy DIY maintenance. Note the S2000 oil filter is specific to the engine. No NOT substitute another one. Note the differential must use GL5 Hypoid Gear Oil. You'll get a zillion engine and transmission oil recommendations -- just follow the owners manual.
-- Chuck
Fit a full set of new gaskets, including the spark plug gaskets. We adjusted the valves on an '02 last month and the spark plug gaskets were so hard and inflexible we had to drive them out with tools. Gasket set is inexpensive. While you're in there you may as well fit new spark plugs they're cheap too.
Full fluid change will give you piece of mind. That includes coolant and brake/clutch fluid. This is all easy DIY maintenance. Note the S2000 oil filter is specific to the engine. No NOT substitute another one. Note the differential must use GL5 Hypoid Gear Oil. You'll get a zillion engine and transmission oil recommendations -- just follow the owners manual.
-- Chuck