How to make the FASTEST S2000!!!!
#1
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I'v been pondering this for a while and i just want to see if all my assumptions are correct and that it could be done. Mostly my worries are if i can have a NOS with a turbo. Not sure if the engine would be able to take it. I just want to see if its possible and that all my numbers are correct. Ok here i go...
S2000 Engine - 240hp at crank
---------------------------------------
Custom Turbo----- +70-100hp- around $9000
NOS----------------- +100hp----- $2000 tops
Mugen Headers--- +4-6hp------ $1300
HKS Exhaust------- +3hp-------- $900
Intercooler--------- +5-6hp----- $400??
RM CAI-------------- +4hp-------- $500
+Catalytic Bypass Pipes - $400ish
+all the weight saving mods, - $ 1600ish
All this (if correct) will add up to 459HP at the crank paying 16,000ish. Would this be the best way to make this car the absolute best in terms of power? If not, please give me an example.thanks
S2000 Engine - 240hp at crank
---------------------------------------
Custom Turbo----- +70-100hp- around $9000
NOS----------------- +100hp----- $2000 tops
Mugen Headers--- +4-6hp------ $1300
HKS Exhaust------- +3hp-------- $900
Intercooler--------- +5-6hp----- $400??
RM CAI-------------- +4hp-------- $500
+Catalytic Bypass Pipes - $400ish
+all the weight saving mods, - $ 1600ish
All this (if correct) will add up to 459HP at the crank paying 16,000ish. Would this be the best way to make this car the absolute best in terms of power? If not, please give me an example.thanks
#2
if you're buying the Mugen headers you might want to go all Mugen and get the Mugen exhaust as well, though with the Turbo you might want to reconsider the header period. in addition, if you're going Turbo you might also want to reconsider the RM CAI (or just remove it all together as no-one has shown proof of positive gains).
of course, others will point out all the additional stuff you're going to need to buy if you want to make this work (fuel management, etc) and still others will point out that you might want to just build in the cost of replacing the drivetrain... but i'll leave that up to them.
of course, others will point out all the additional stuff you're going to need to buy if you want to make this work (fuel management, etc) and still others will point out that you might want to just build in the cost of replacing the drivetrain... but i'll leave that up to them.
#3
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power gains are not calculated like that, they are aggregates with other parts. just because an air filter makes 2HPs on the dyno by itself and an exhaust makes say 5HPs on the dyno by itself doesn't mean you'll get 7HPs gain on the dyno when you put the two together.
just my 2 cents. you'll need to sit down with a tuner you trust, discuss your budget, your plans/goals, and map out a custom route to reach those goals. the tuner can then suggest parts and combinations within the parameters and try to realistically reach those goals.
but then again, sky is really the limit if money was no object.
just my 2 cents. you'll need to sit down with a tuner you trust, discuss your budget, your plans/goals, and map out a custom route to reach those goals. the tuner can then suggest parts and combinations within the parameters and try to realistically reach those goals.
but then again, sky is really the limit if money was no object.
#5
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acutally... i think you should build the bottom end first.... forged steel rods (ti if u can afford it) lower compression pistons. iron sleeves... etc etc..so the 11:1 compression motor won't become molten alum art... hehe.. top end can always be done later...
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#9
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Actually, I think the bottom end is plenty strong...can stand up to very harsh vibrations from forced induction. Though I think u're right, he does need to lower his compression a little.
I think the top end wasn't built to withstand forced induction. If you run long periods at high rpms...I think you might produce some bent valves
I think the top end wasn't built to withstand forced induction. If you run long periods at high rpms...I think you might produce some bent valves
#10
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If your on the salf flats might not need to tighten the suspension, but otherwise, you might want to consider braces for top and bottom, adjustable sway bars, coilovers etc. May help keep the "rocket car" from hitting a tree
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