zeroptzero

I am referring to a snorkel that runs off the oem air box, so it feeds the box the coolest air possible from the front bumper area outside of the engine bay, and you get a bit of a ram air effect at higher speeds. A Cold air intake that you refer to is different, but it is also effective at delivering cooler air to the manifold. It definitely changes the sound of the engine, and it can have issues with rain/water.

My snorkel is no louder than the oem air box setup, completely quiet. Mine also stays completely dry, even in torrential rains. I also run a J's Racing vented hood which keeps the intake arm and intake manifold cooler by venting hot air out of the engine bay. The vented hood builds upon the cold air effect coming into the air box by lowering underhood temps of the intake parts.

I have monitored my intake air temps quite a bit (which on an ap1 also relates to intake manifold temp). I have seen a big difference in under hood temps over a completely stock setup. My setup can still heat up in stop and go traffic but as soon as the car gets over 30mph you can see temps dropping quickly. The completely oem factory setup stays heat-soaked forever once it gets hot and doesn't really cool down once it is hot. After a bit of steady state driving I can get my underhood temps under 20 degrees above ambient, where the stock setup would be 50+ degrees above ambient.

J's Racing Snorkel Running off the OEM air box


Vented hood Pic. The mouth of my snorkel is just above the passenger side driving light in the front bumper opening.

Soof

Hey Zero, is the snorkel an easy install?

I'm mechanically challenged, but I can Hammer a nail !!!

AZS2KDancer

I live in a southwest USA desert, where ambient temperatures can soar in the summertime. I'd be interested in seeing how many in the southwest run something like this snorkel. I'm not sure that I want to run a ventilated hood at this point. Would one be required for full effect of the snorkel?

Spagolli94

I had a chance to do a lot more research tonight. Seems I was suffering from heat soak, or as some call it, heat bog. If you Google for S2000 heat soak, you can find a ton of info and possible fixes. My solution for now is to try to avoid stop and go traffic in the summer. Or if I get stuck in a jam, just deal with it, knowing it's only temporary.

NoMoreCivicsPlease

I run a CAI for that exact reason OP, live in FL :/

Mr. Slowly

I've never noticed this issue. In fact, the hotter it is the happier my s2000 seems to be in every respect. Turning on the A/C does zaps a big chunk of power, though. For this, I can do a couple things. I can keep the top up with the windows down to keep the sun from baking me and I can turn the A/C on full blast for just the first minute of my drive so that the vents are chilled for ambient air to pass through. Alternatively, the A/C button can become a push-to-pass button.

VilleS2K

High heat definitely negatively affects the F20C and F22C, like it does every N/A engine (it's just more noticeable the smaller the displacement). There is a noticeable difference between, say, 50-60 degree weather and 80-90 degree weather. You've seriously never experienced this... and you've actually seen a reverse effect? That's a first.

zeroptzero

It's a drop in fitment if you order the right part, some are made for oem hoods others are made for aftermarket hoods. Mine is for the oem hood fitment. I trimmed around the oem air guide at the front of the car, simple enough to do with some snips as it is just soft plastic. I've got the snorkel fastened to the front crossmember with two self tapping screws, very simple to do , and some people don't even screw it in place.

I will admit the J's racing one is expensive, but it is a perfect fit and it is kevlar, so it looks good IMO. There used to be some less expensive ones available on ebay made of plastic which could work too , look around. I found mine used on this forum , sometimes they come up for sale in the classifieds.

zeroptzero

The snorkel and vented hood work well together but it isn't necessary to have both. The snorkel gets you cooler ambient air delivered to the air filter. Have a look at the opening of the oem air box , it sucks air from the radiator area, which is still well within the underhood area and near a heat source.

The vented hood extracts hot underhood air so the intake box, intake arm, and intake manifold run cooler, so the cooler air coming in doesn't get heated up too much by the intake system. The OEM bonnet setup doesn't allow for much hot air to escape underhood, it gets trapped under the hood. It's not uncommon to see intake temps that are 50-60 degrees above ambient in everyday conditions, and even higher than that in certain conditions.

On the ap1 the intake temp sensor is mounted on the intake manifold. So the temps you are reading are the temps inside the intake manifold. When you open the throttle plate you will see intake temps drop as cooler air comes in from the snorkel, as the throttle plate closes intake temps will rise. In steady state driving you will see temps dropping with a cold air source and the throttle open. With the oem setup the temps just keep rising upwards, and in hot conditions it is just enough to cause the ecu to retard ignition timing due to increased air temps , moving to more conservative states of tune. So you lose power for two reasons - less oxygen in the air stream, and the chance of conservative ecu tuning.

Mr. Slowly

I don't mean to say that I don't notice the issue. I'm saying I perceive the loss in power as heat rises to be very slight. OP is comparing the loss in power to driving through mud. I don't experience anything like that with the A/C off. Conversely, the tires, brakes, transmission, and differential all seem to get happier and happier with heat. I'm sure there's a ceiling on that but it must be over 100º, at least for street use.