krazik

That is the strongest way to have the drilled look yes.

They still aren't as strong as regular vented rotors.

wwwracer

Krazik,
are the OEM rotors vented. I bought my crossed/drilled rotors from Spugen. i bought them mainly for the looks though. hows Santa Cruz? i went to UCSC. I love it up there. i have a friend the works at biotech SC

JL9000

Cross-drilled rotors are mainly for looks. Every track junky knows to stay away from them, unless the already excellent stock rotors wear out, then they either replace with another set of OEM rotors, or aftermarket slotted rotors.

What you want are stickier tires, more aggressive pads and fluid, and maybe a good set of calipers. Don't expect much from multi-piston calipers at low speed though, however they do improve feedback and pedal feel, while saving you some unsprung weight.

Ludedude

The OEM fronts are vented, the rears are solid.

Ludedude

Or G3000 replacements

Had to sneak that in there. Charles is right though: Stay away from drilled rotors on the track.

S2k Dude

I recently installed a set of aftermarket drilled and slotted rotors. I did a lot of research on whether or not to do cross drilled or slots or niether. The set I purchased are black cad plated, drilled & slotted, and cryo treated. The cryo treating is supposed to help with reducing any microfractures in the material. The treatment also virtually eliminates warping.

I agree that the stock rotors are very good, they hold up quite well under all conditions. However, the drilled and/or slotted rotors have been shown to run about 80

krazik

[QUOTE=S2k Dude,Jul 23 2004, 07:02 AM] However, the drilled and/or slotted rotors have been shown to run about 80

wwwracer

[QUOTE=Ludedude,Jul 22 2004, 10:16 PM] Or G3000 replacements

Had to sneak that in there.

Ludedude

Ryan, it depends on many factors not the least of which is how much track experience you have. The "faster" you are, the harder you can potentially be on brakes. I'll go out on a limb and say that you're not likely to crack those rotors your first time out but it's always a possibility.

If you're using your brakes to their fullest potential, then yes, you're going to want to switch to an OEM style (solid) rotor. I'm pretty sure the G3000 OEM replacements are coated inside the vanes to keep them from rusting. I'd have to confirm that 100% with the manufacturer if that's a make or break point with you (or anyone for that matter).

As far as the CAT goes, you're on your own but I doubt you'll realize any difference in lap times unless you're already at the upper limits of the machinery. Save your time for making sure your brakes are up to snuff. They're far more important than trying to squeeze another 3 hp out of the car

J.P.

wwwracer

thanks J.P.. i mainly bought my rotors for show(cuz i liked how they looked). i never liked the rust look of stock rotors. it bothered me when i had my Ford Ranger Edge 4x4. When i track my car, which i probably wont do until i take a few driving lessons, i will care only about performance and not show.