Drilled/slotted Rotors And Breaking
#1
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Drilled/slotted Rotors And Breaking
I recently had new cadium plated drilled/slotted rottors put on my S with some Ceramicool brakepads. I wanted the rotors because i like how they look. I found out that they are a little bit lighter than the OEM rotors and they are not supposed to rust either.
Do you think the combination of the drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic brake pads will allow me to brake in a shorter distance than the OEM pads and rotors? maybe by a little?
Do you think the combination of the drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic brake pads will allow me to brake in a shorter distance than the OEM pads and rotors? maybe by a little?
#2
Administrator
No, the limiting factor is the tires. They more traction they offer, the shorter your stopping distance will be. If you can get the wheels to lock up or go into ABS with the stock tires, no set of brakes will allow you to stop faster than that.
You want to shorten your stopping distances? Get stickier (or larger) rubber.
You want to shorten your stopping distances? Get stickier (or larger) rubber.
#3
Registered User
the slots/holes helps vent gas and supposedly cools the brakes better. I'm not sure how much, though. One thing I have thought of doing is taking the vents in the bumper and using them to vent the brakes. That'll cool them down.
#4
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Steven, I thin k someone wrote up a DYI on that. Search for it, I plan on doing that myself as well + Crossdrilled and slotted rotors. I think crossdrilled/ slotted rotors keep the rotors cooler and prevent fading under heavy braking conditions, might make a slight improvement in braking power too.
#5
Stay away from agressive brake pads and hard use. The cad plated rotors look nice and last unless you push them. I ran mine for over a year on R4S pads on the street without problems. Last Feb. at Laguna Seca I changed to much more agressive R4 pads and melted the cad off on the first session.
The last session of the day I started braking much harder (decreased lap time by 10 seconds) and the rotors cracked and warped. This was with cooling measures and a cool down lap. I should have taken three cool down laps.
The last session of the day I started braking much harder (decreased lap time by 10 seconds) and the rotors cracked and warped. This was with cooling measures and a cool down lap. I should have taken three cool down laps.
#6
Ouch Sideways.
I am skeptical as to the quality of many aftermarket rotors. I ran the stock rotors on my ITR with R4 pads -- went through 4 sets of fronts and 3 sets of rears before the rotors needed to be replaced due to some hairline stress cracks -- and they probably would have made it through a couple more no problems.
The aftermarket Autozone rotors I put on were gone after the first set of pads.
I am skeptical as to the quality of many aftermarket rotors. I ran the stock rotors on my ITR with R4 pads -- went through 4 sets of fronts and 3 sets of rears before the rotors needed to be replaced due to some hairline stress cracks -- and they probably would have made it through a couple more no problems.
The aftermarket Autozone rotors I put on were gone after the first set of pads.
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#8
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Originally Posted by steven975,Jul 21 2004, 04:55 AM
the slots/holes helps vent gas and supposedly cools the brakes better. I'm not sure how much, though. One thing I have thought of doing is taking the vents in the bumper and using them to vent the brakes. That'll cool them down.
Slots and Holes are ONLY for looks.
Brake ducting helps cool your brakes a lot.
#9
Administrator
Originally Posted by Hockey,Jul 21 2004, 08:19 AM
Cross-drilled rotors have a bad habit of cracking under track-use conditions.
That's the main reason I went with just slotted rotors.
Word to the wise!
That's the main reason I went with just slotted rotors.
Word to the wise!
It is true slotted are -less- prone to cracking than drilled rotors, they both are prone to crack way quicker than a normal vented rotor.
#10
Registered User
lots of cheaper drilled rotors are simply drilled. drilling introduces all kinds of changes to the rotor. not only does it stretch certain areas, it also can form micro cracks along the holes (which basically start to form bigger cracks).
I believe that the only way to have strong drilled rotors is to cast the rotors WITH the holes rather than adding them. am I right?
I believe that the only way to have strong drilled rotors is to cast the rotors WITH the holes rather than adding them. am I right?