does anyone has Brembo break yet? or some other break system? how you like it?
#1
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does anyone has Brembo break yet? or some other break system? how you like it?
I want to up grade my break system because the stock one dont do any good on race track.
Thanks for the input
Thanks for the input
#3
A fellow owner here in Phoenix has the front Brembo big brake kit and loves it. Much lower brake temperatures and no brake fade at the track.
The down sides are that you need at least 17" wheels (maybe 18's), and in addition to that cost, the Brembo front brake kit costs about $2500.
The Wilwood kit mentioned above looks like a nice setup for about $1000 less than Brembos. You'll still need 17" wheels though. See this https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...threadid=101125
There's also the Pinnacle Brake kit which will fit your stock wheels, see here and costs in the $2200 range http://www.ricks2k.com/products/brakes.html
That being said, I've found (as have most), that if you upgrade your brake fluid and brake pads, the stock braking system works great on the track. In the groups I run in, I brake later and harder than all of the street cars. Granted that my stock brakes are running 500 to 600 deg F rotor temperatures, but with the upgraded pads (R4S) and fluid (ATE Superblue or Motul) there's no fade and the brakes grip hard and are controllable with no ABS engagement (well maybe a little ABS every now and then).
These temperatures did melt the caliper dust seals on my front brakes, but now I run without 'em, and so far so good. The rear brake dust seals are still intact. I was wondering what the big brake kits use for dust seals or whether their design eliminates them?
If you haven't already, just upgrade your pads to some Porterfield R4S or Carbotech Panther Plus (~$190/complete set), flush and fill your brake system with some Racing Brake Fluid (ATE Super Blue or Motul (two quarts for ~$20), and try that at the track before you go off and spend the big bucks on something you may NOT need. See this https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...40&pagenumber=2
The down sides are that you need at least 17" wheels (maybe 18's), and in addition to that cost, the Brembo front brake kit costs about $2500.
The Wilwood kit mentioned above looks like a nice setup for about $1000 less than Brembos. You'll still need 17" wheels though. See this https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...threadid=101125
There's also the Pinnacle Brake kit which will fit your stock wheels, see here and costs in the $2200 range http://www.ricks2k.com/products/brakes.html
That being said, I've found (as have most), that if you upgrade your brake fluid and brake pads, the stock braking system works great on the track. In the groups I run in, I brake later and harder than all of the street cars. Granted that my stock brakes are running 500 to 600 deg F rotor temperatures, but with the upgraded pads (R4S) and fluid (ATE Superblue or Motul) there's no fade and the brakes grip hard and are controllable with no ABS engagement (well maybe a little ABS every now and then).
These temperatures did melt the caliper dust seals on my front brakes, but now I run without 'em, and so far so good. The rear brake dust seals are still intact. I was wondering what the big brake kits use for dust seals or whether their design eliminates them?
If you haven't already, just upgrade your pads to some Porterfield R4S or Carbotech Panther Plus (~$190/complete set), flush and fill your brake system with some Racing Brake Fluid (ATE Super Blue or Motul (two quarts for ~$20), and try that at the track before you go off and spend the big bucks on something you may NOT need. See this https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...40&pagenumber=2
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Is there any need for Brembos or other brake kits if you do not take it to the track??? Also I heard upgrading brake lines to steel is one of the biggest improvements???
#5
No you don't need to change brakes at all for street driven S2000s. S2000 have one of, if not the best brakes of any car straight from the factory.
Braided steel lines aren't really necessary on a street driven car. Yeah, braided steel lines are stronger, more resistant to bursting, and look better. But the rubber lines are more than adequate for street-driven cars and surprisingly plenty good enough for track days.
Braided steel lines, do provide better brake response, because they don't bulge as far as the rubber lines do when you hit the brake pedal, but I'd challenge anybody to notice the difference while street driving. In fact, if you want better brake response, somebody mentioned a while ago, that just wrapping the rubber lines tightly with several ty-wraps would improve brake response. The theory being that doing so would be the limit the line bulge and provide quicker brake response.
Braided steel lines aren't really necessary on a street driven car. Yeah, braided steel lines are stronger, more resistant to bursting, and look better. But the rubber lines are more than adequate for street-driven cars and surprisingly plenty good enough for track days.
Braided steel lines, do provide better brake response, because they don't bulge as far as the rubber lines do when you hit the brake pedal, but I'd challenge anybody to notice the difference while street driving. In fact, if you want better brake response, somebody mentioned a while ago, that just wrapping the rubber lines tightly with several ty-wraps would improve brake response. The theory being that doing so would be the limit the line bulge and provide quicker brake response.
#6
as gloffer said, no need to change the brakes for street use...
unless you get tired of that rust!
an expensive change for looks- and you really need to do all 4 (not easy to find all 4 in one kit) if you are going for looks.
unless you get tired of that rust!
an expensive change for looks- and you really need to do all 4 (not easy to find all 4 in one kit) if you are going for looks.
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