Did Anyone Change The Clutch And Flywheel? Need Advice
#1
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IM GOING TO BUY A NEW CLUTCH AND FLYWHEEL. WHICH BRAND IS BETTER AND HOW MUCH? I NEED IT SOON BECAUSE MY CLUTCH IS ALMOST WORN OUT. THANKS
PS. WHAT IS THE FASTEST WAY TO GET IT? I CALLED SOME SHOPS THEY SAID IT MIGHT TOOK 4 TO 8 WEEKS. THATS TO LONG. SO DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET IT FASTER?
PS. WHAT IS THE FASTEST WAY TO GET IT? I CALLED SOME SHOPS THEY SAID IT MIGHT TOOK 4 TO 8 WEEKS. THATS TO LONG. SO DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET IT FASTER?
#2
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Honda 055 clutch and pressure plate.
For flywheel: Try either the Comptech, Toda or Spoon. Comptech and Toda are equal and the lighter than the spoon.
For flywheel: Try either the Comptech, Toda or Spoon. Comptech and Toda are equal and the lighter than the spoon.
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<etiquette>
The first thing to do is to look on your keyboard and press the CAPS LOCK KEY, please. It's hard to read and it also signifies that you are yelling.
</etiquette>
I have the Toda Flywheel and the ACT Clutch. To tell you the truth, there were only a few differences that I noticed with the lightened flywheel. It's easier to stall when you take off from a stop. That takes some time to get used to and doesn't bother me anymore. It's also easier to rev match during downshifts.
The ACT Clutch changed the feel of this car dramatically. It has 38% more clamping force than the OEM which also makes pushing in the clutch pedal much harder. If you've ever driven a Mustang 5.0, it like that. That also took some time to get used to as well. My ACT clutch is now exhibiting the "Noise/Vibration while decelerating" problem and slips when shifting at high RPMs.
The first OEM clutch last around 12-15k miles and the second OEM clutch lasted about the same. Both of them were replaced to the excessive "noise/vibration" and not slippage.
The ACT Clutch has lasted 35k miles, which is twice as long as the OEM lasted. I later found out that the ACT clutch is actually a modified Honda clutch.
I just started looking for another clutch as well.
Good luck,
Joe
The first thing to do is to look on your keyboard and press the CAPS LOCK KEY, please. It's hard to read and it also signifies that you are yelling.
</etiquette>
I have the Toda Flywheel and the ACT Clutch. To tell you the truth, there were only a few differences that I noticed with the lightened flywheel. It's easier to stall when you take off from a stop. That takes some time to get used to and doesn't bother me anymore. It's also easier to rev match during downshifts.
The ACT Clutch changed the feel of this car dramatically. It has 38% more clamping force than the OEM which also makes pushing in the clutch pedal much harder. If you've ever driven a Mustang 5.0, it like that. That also took some time to get used to as well. My ACT clutch is now exhibiting the "Noise/Vibration while decelerating" problem and slips when shifting at high RPMs.
The first OEM clutch last around 12-15k miles and the second OEM clutch lasted about the same. Both of them were replaced to the excessive "noise/vibration" and not slippage.
The ACT Clutch has lasted 35k miles, which is twice as long as the OEM lasted. I later found out that the ACT clutch is actually a modified Honda clutch.
I just started looking for another clutch as well.
Good luck,
Joe
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Sorry about the caps lock key. Im not yelling. So you suggest me to change the flywheel only. The stock one is good enough if I dont have turbo or S/C.
#7
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Personally I have a Toda Lightweight Flywheel and a Star Stage Three Clutch w/ lightweight option. The main difference I feel is when taken off and on hard gear changes. The pedal feel is just about identical to stock but the engaging point is not forgiving. There is a significant break when engaging the clutch and the grabbing force is much higher than stock and can be felt when making quick, hard gear changes. One thing some other members have noted is they have had trouble with the Star clutch in particular the stage III varient. I have had no problems but only had the part installed for 2k miles. Also, all my parts came from Bulletproof Automotive, a board sponsor.
Konrad
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#9
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Hey konrad. I was one of the people who's star stage 3 blew up. There are more people having problems all the time. The Star Stage 3 along with any pucked clutch puts some serious un-needed stress on the driveline and rear-end.
The ACT clutch/pp unit appears to do ok, but I am not convinced it really gives you much of an advantage over stock. The reports have always been the same. "After a few hard launches it feels stock again"
xpander. That sucks, but it's definately not the norm tho.
b8b88: yes that is my advice after learning the hardway.
The ACT clutch/pp unit appears to do ok, but I am not convinced it really gives you much of an advantage over stock. The reports have always been the same. "After a few hard launches it feels stock again"
xpander. That sucks, but it's definately not the norm tho.
b8b88: yes that is my advice after learning the hardway.
#10
I wouldn't get any OEM parts, unless they were being replaced under warranty. I hate the OEM clutch. I am on #2 and it seems to be weaker than the first. Poor design I believe.
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