"Coolest" mod.
#12
Nah, I'm wrapping the whole car with it ;-) Just kidding.
It's for the drive shaft tunnel! Another thing Honda should have done from the beginning. The tunnel gets way too hot!
The mat is made by Thermo Tec. www.thermotec.com. It's called Cool-it Insulating Mat, for radiant heat and sound. Their part no. 14100. I got the 24"x 48" mat. Approx. $35 shipped.
The tunnel is approx. 36" long and almost exactly 24" inside. The cut out is for the gear shift linkage. I sealed the edges with duct tape (what project would be complete without it.) It's a bit of a pain to do without a lift. But, I found that jacking up the rear of the car gave more access. It was easier to slip into place by removing the band at the rear of the drive shaft. What's that thing for, anyway?
The mat comes with plastic push-in fasteners. But there aren't any holes to push them into and I was reluctant (not to mention positionally challenged) to drill holes into the underbody. I instead used the recommended weather strip adhesive. I also secured in under the band at the rear of the drive shaft.
Important to clean the tunnel prior to application. Once in place I stuffed all of my shop towels into the tunnel to compress it into place as much as possible. A little more adhesive at the edges and some duct tape to compress that in place.
Hopefully, this will reduce the tunnel temps. Mine is a fair weather car, and I don't much care for the provided beverage warmer feature. I'll provide results and an update tomorrow.
It's for the drive shaft tunnel! Another thing Honda should have done from the beginning. The tunnel gets way too hot!
The mat is made by Thermo Tec. www.thermotec.com. It's called Cool-it Insulating Mat, for radiant heat and sound. Their part no. 14100. I got the 24"x 48" mat. Approx. $35 shipped.
The tunnel is approx. 36" long and almost exactly 24" inside. The cut out is for the gear shift linkage. I sealed the edges with duct tape (what project would be complete without it.) It's a bit of a pain to do without a lift. But, I found that jacking up the rear of the car gave more access. It was easier to slip into place by removing the band at the rear of the drive shaft. What's that thing for, anyway?
The mat comes with plastic push-in fasteners. But there aren't any holes to push them into and I was reluctant (not to mention positionally challenged) to drill holes into the underbody. I instead used the recommended weather strip adhesive. I also secured in under the band at the rear of the drive shaft.
Important to clean the tunnel prior to application. Once in place I stuffed all of my shop towels into the tunnel to compress it into place as much as possible. A little more adhesive at the edges and some duct tape to compress that in place.
Hopefully, this will reduce the tunnel temps. Mine is a fair weather car, and I don't much care for the provided beverage warmer feature. I'll provide results and an update tomorrow.
#15
Boiler does get credit for guessing correctly! No special favors to fellow Indiana residents (despite the fact that he's a Purdue-dah). j/k. I'm actually Illinois born and raised. He posted at exactly the same time as my answer.
This has bugged me since day one. Not too many additional pictures. I could barely get my body under there! I will write it up and give the dimensions and A's to FAQ's.
This has bugged me since day one. Not too many additional pictures. I could barely get my body under there! I will write it up and give the dimensions and A's to FAQ's.
#17
No doubt that the tranny tunnel gets very hot.
My issues with my 1-2 grind seem to only happen when my tranny gets very hot..Do you think that by sheilding the tunnel even more could enhance that problem? The heat has to go somewhere right?
I may be way off, but something to think about
My issues with my 1-2 grind seem to only happen when my tranny gets very hot..Do you think that by sheilding the tunnel even more could enhance that problem? The heat has to go somewhere right?
I may be way off, but something to think about
#18
I'm a new old guy!
Had my S2 for over a year before I did anything other than wax it and replaced tires at 12K miles with S03s. Bought 01 used with 3500 miles on it from Honda finance manager. Wasn't broken in.
First mod started last month and now cant stop. (Help)
First mod was sound system upgrade. Put in JVC head, 2 ARC amps in trunk, replaced spare tire with 2 8"ers in custom box for Sub, 2 5"ers in head rest (two young kids who like to do custom fab for $$$), and speaker components in doors with tweaters in windshield post.
They also used lighter dynamat on tunnel, doors and firewall. This has cut heat and sound a great deal, except for the extra noise form system.
Next was a trip to Rick's site for wind blocker, consul cover, and shift nob. I had put new muz mats, trunk liner, and roof mat in two days ago. Saw Rick's new mats today. Crap!!!
New 17" BBS rims with 214 45 and 245 40 S03s should be hear on Tuesday.
Since I am new, I have a question. I have read a lot of you talking about quick oversteer tendency. I have had to correct for this only once when getting on the gas too hard during sharp 90, u turn, and turning onto road from stop sign in the rain. I have driven the car, what I feel is fairly hard, for 21K miles now and feel that the car is basically neutral.
I have noticed that the read end inside seems to lift on down hill turn off the gas and wont push it hear because it feel like it may have a tendency to spin. Any other time I have been on the gas hard and had the car hint at letting the back loose, but just moves a little and come back in line. I do try to drive it smooth and never toss it into a turn because it is so neutral. The question is; is this what every one is considering dangerous, or am I an accident waiting to happen?
And----- how do I move the smily guys onto my message?
Sloopy, ticket me yellow 01 S2
Had my S2 for over a year before I did anything other than wax it and replaced tires at 12K miles with S03s. Bought 01 used with 3500 miles on it from Honda finance manager. Wasn't broken in.
First mod started last month and now cant stop. (Help)
First mod was sound system upgrade. Put in JVC head, 2 ARC amps in trunk, replaced spare tire with 2 8"ers in custom box for Sub, 2 5"ers in head rest (two young kids who like to do custom fab for $$$), and speaker components in doors with tweaters in windshield post.
They also used lighter dynamat on tunnel, doors and firewall. This has cut heat and sound a great deal, except for the extra noise form system.
Next was a trip to Rick's site for wind blocker, consul cover, and shift nob. I had put new muz mats, trunk liner, and roof mat in two days ago. Saw Rick's new mats today. Crap!!!
New 17" BBS rims with 214 45 and 245 40 S03s should be hear on Tuesday.
Since I am new, I have a question. I have read a lot of you talking about quick oversteer tendency. I have had to correct for this only once when getting on the gas too hard during sharp 90, u turn, and turning onto road from stop sign in the rain. I have driven the car, what I feel is fairly hard, for 21K miles now and feel that the car is basically neutral.
I have noticed that the read end inside seems to lift on down hill turn off the gas and wont push it hear because it feel like it may have a tendency to spin. Any other time I have been on the gas hard and had the car hint at letting the back loose, but just moves a little and come back in line. I do try to drive it smooth and never toss it into a turn because it is so neutral. The question is; is this what every one is considering dangerous, or am I an accident waiting to happen?
And----- how do I move the smily guys onto my message?
Sloopy, ticket me yellow 01 S2
#20
Sloopy, It sounds like you are OK with your driving. You can feel what the car is telling you and then drive accordingly. That's what this rear wheel sports car is all about. I've been driving rear wheel drive cars for almost 40 years and I have found no surprises, either.