XclusiveAutosports

I've never heard anything like this before. I certainly hope this is BS, putting in that new clutch was a PITA that I don't feel like repeating anytime soon.

Elistan

Another Comptech flywheel photo (not mine).


These are RSX flywheels in the making:


I seriously doubt the Comptech ones are machined OEM ones.

Ludedude

No they're not remachined stock pieces.

LeonGalt

Now I serisouly wish I had taken pictures of it. It did not look like the solid silver one in the picture above. The outer edge with the gear teeth was black while the center was silver and there were definitly welds there where those too parts joined.

I'm not going to worry about it though. I'm very happy with how it turned out, it feels great. If it comes apart so be it. I'll rebuild and make it better. Actually, in an surprising turn, once he was finished the mechanic admitted to me that he had originally doubted that going with a stronger pressure plate and a stock disk would work very well. However when he was finished and test drove it he said it was actually very nice and he liked it a lot. So I was impressed that he at least had an open mind about it and could see that it was a good choice. Was surprised he hadn't seen this combo before though.

ImportSport

Here is a beat up OEM flywheel. I have never heard anything regarding the comptech flywheel being any less than reliable.

chairmnofthboard

Never understood why people want lightened flywheels. My experiences with high revving Honda's & lighten flywheels were like this.

A. It only seems to rev faster when the clutch is pressed.

B. your Rpm's drop faster between shifts.

I feel that the engine needs that added weight to keep the crank assembly spinning when you're not on the throttle, less weight and the compression of the engine will slow the engines rotation faster.

But maybe that's something you are looking for, I dunno.

Just my thoughts.

slipstream444

The Comptech flywheel is 2-piece. I have it on my S2000 and it's a good mod. 2-piece flywheels are common. The likelihood it would come apart is slim.

My first aftermarket flywheel was a Toda - and I had clutch slippage problems with the setup and switched to the Comptech. I've had absolutely no problems with my Comptech/ACT setup.

The Toda is lighter than the Comptech. The Comptech is resurfaceable -the Toda is not.

If your mechanic works at a shop that sells Toda products - this sounds like a case of bad advice to sell some product.

Charmnofthbourd: answers to your points - A: No - it revs faster clutch in or out. B: Yes - RPMs will drop faster between shifts. This only requires a driver with some basic skills in rev matching.

stphotographer: the Comptech is not a stock regrind - that's BS. The Comptech is made of Chromolly and the stock FW is not. There is a huge difference between the two.

Leon - if you're having buyer

afwfjustin

You know, I was debating on whether or not to go with a lightened flywheel because I have 4.77 gears and I have to shift more. It seems with the heavier flywheel that I'll have more momentum when I shift. With a lighter flywheel, it seems that my extra shifts might slow me down if I'm not really pounding through the gears because I won't lose as much ground.

For instance, in a 1/4 mile, I have to shift to 5th, whereas 4.57 and less gears don't have to. For my extra shift, I'm thinking that the lighter flywheel might make me slower because I won't have that same momentum in between shifts.

It's time for me to get a new clutch soon, I'll have to think about this.

LeonGalt

Thank you for your input slipstream. In fact I am not regretting the decision, I'm very happy with how it turned out. The new clutch grabs hard and is an inch off the floor. Everything is smoother, revs come easier, it just feels better.

Also, for what it is worth, the mechanic was NOT a Toda dealer. They did not have the parts in stock and did not sell them. He was honestly trying to look out for me using his best judgement at the time. In the end I think we all learned a little bit more about flywheels.

slipstream444

It's all good man.
My frustration is driven by people that give out bad info - and your mechanic wasn't giving you the whole truth either.
A few of the previous posts were just straight BS - and do nothing to help someone find an answer. In fact - it does significantly more damage than not knowing.
I'm tired of reading posts with crap along the lines of: "I heard this one guy say that Comptech Flywheels are made from melted down Spam containers..." or the like.
Okay, that's a 'slight' exageration, but I hope it gets the point across.

This part is for those that post without knowing what they're talking about -

If you don't have a basic understanding of a discussion topic - don't post for the sake of posting. Take a few minutes to do some basic research on a subject before posting a response to a question.
Here's a good site for basic research: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/

Rest assured Leon - your Comptech FW will serve you well. If for some reason it fails - the folks at Comptech should take care of you. If it does fail - make sure you buy a lot of Lottery tickets and avoid thunderstorms - because your number is up!

This is general info for those who are considering a lighter flywheel:
A flywheel is nothing more than an energy storage device. The heavier it is, the more energy will be stored - and the more energy it takes to accelerate it. Heavy flywheels are used in cars that will likely be driven by unskilled drivers. The heavier the flywheel, the less likely the driver will stall the car when taking off. A heavier FW makes working a clutch much easier. The tradeoff is a much less responsive car.

With a lightened FW - you'll need to be just a little more on your game when shifting. A lighter flywheel lets the engine accelerate and decelerate faster. It makes 'getting out of the hole' a little trickier as well. Nothing too difficult though.

Here's some links for those who want to geek out on the subject (Yes, I'm a geek).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flywheel
http://www.upei.ca/~physics/p261/projects/...1/flywheel1.htm

Here's a link to a site that explains the effects of rotational mass - driveline and wheel - on acceleration.
http://www-unix.oit.umass.edu/~tcroy/artic...gineinertia.htm

The Readers Digest version basically spells out that rotational mass spinning at crank speed (your FW, and harmonic balancer+crank pulley) - has a much greater affect on acceleration than the rotational masses spinning at wheel speed.
Installing a lightened FW will improve acceleration much more than lighter wheels.
Lighter wheels, on the other hand, can greatly improve braking and handling (unsprung weight).
From a braking standpoint (negative acceleration), the wheel (and the rotating mass of your brake) are considered energy storage devices (from a rotational standpoint), and reducing their collective 'mass' (rotational inertia) will improve the caliper's effectiveness. The caliper in this situation can be considered an engine of sorts, from a negative standpoint. It converts rotational kinetic energy into heat.
On a safety note: I know someone out there is considering a lightened crank pulley without the harmonic balancer. Let there be no confusion - Do NOT get rid of your harmonic balancer. If you do - you'll be replacing a lot more shortly thereafter. But that's a whole other discussion in and of itself.

I hope this was useful info.