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I would say scrapping off the rusty area a bit and some of the remaining undercoating before using the degreaser, pressure washing, and metal prep would help the Por15 stick better
Be sure to pour only a bit out and use a self tapping bolt to fill the hole. Using some garbage bags and tape you can get everything protected so you can just brush on the Por15. After it cures adding some spray on undercoating would be best to help protect it.
I got the Por15 undercoating but 3M is just as good.
Another vote for POR15. Most of the complaints that come from using this stuff (e.g., flakes, peels off, doesn't stick well, etc.) comes from poor surface prep. I can attest to this myself as I've had varying levels of success with the final outcome. The one common factor being the quality of surface prep. The surface really does need to completely free from residue to get the best adhesion. It also doesn't seem to adhere as well to smooth surfaces even with the metal prep applied. For smooth surfaces, I'd try to rough it up with sandpaper before degreasing and metal etching. If possible, buy the smallest cans since the lids are pretty much impossible to remove once the product sticks to them.
Wire wheels attached to a drill or angle grinder make surface prep easier. If you're able to, sandblasting the part is best. Check out Mike's Restorations on Youtube. He has several segments on POR15 application. Mind you he's trusting this stuff on his super high-end Porsche restoration, so the product does have validity when used properly.
I have been reading about this product a bit and also seen SpeedAcademy Use it on YT. Really interesting product but like you say it needs very good prep to stick and to work well... I don't want to say I am a lazy or anything like that but Knowing me I will probably end up messing something up during the process... either not cleaning it properly or doing something wrong I am looking for product which is idiot proof
I found this video which is quite interesting... It shows that por15 is working but it flakes off quite easily... Fluid film on the other hand is easily applied but washes way easily also...
Need to do more research, I am staying defiantly away from rubberized coatings since I heard terrible stories where it wasn't applied correctly and moisture got under the coating... from outside it looked great but after few years everything underneath was completely rotted !!! Therefore I dont mind going under the car once every year to reapply a product which I know will not cause damage and I will be sure it will work
It will definitely add to the grease factor. It causes dirt and grime to cling on, which I've heard actually strengthens it. Aesthetically speaking, yes, it looks like crap, and when you are doing work underneath, you get a little more dirty. I feel that is a small price to pay to have a rust-free car. In winters, I will wash the truck every 2 weeks or so at the DIY bays, making sure to avoid high pressure as it will remove the coating. I've heard that the 'spot-free' cycle actually uses fresh water instead of recycled like the other modes, so I usually opt for that, and it's low pressure. The other bonus of using Fluid Film, is it's environmentally friendly.
Just avoid spraying on it on rubber components. Apparently it has been known to slightly swell them, but that hasn't happened to me, though. I spray that stuff everywhere; Frame (including inside the frame), bottom of the doors, rockers, engine bay. I would highly encourage you to look into it for your CA car. By the way, I am not in any way paid by them or endorsed. I am just a huge fan of this product. Have been using it since 2014. There are other products on the market that do just as good of a job, though.
Here's a video that reviews FF as well as other protectants:
I have seen this video great review / comparison of different products... As you say, one downside to FF is that dirt sticks to it but honestly I wouldn't mind that if I have peace of mind that the car is safe...
Some people say to stay away from spraying it onto rubber but others just go for it...
Now since my car is Fully Poly bushed Powerflex Black series and Innovative rear diff Mounts ... anyone know if this product is safe to be used on Poly Bushes ?
I've never used the Eastwood stuff, but it seems like their product requires less surface prep. I was actually trying to buy some of this stuff because of the supposed easier prep, but they don't ship to Hawaii. Just another option for you: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-black-rust-encapsulator-paint-over-rust.html
I use the CRC stuff shown in that video and it seems to hold up pretty well. It dries into this light brown film, which is difficult to wipe off. I wouldn't recommend it on areas where aesthetics matter (i.e., engine bay). WD-40 does work great as a solvent for this stuff.
For any of those rusty areas, I would recommend stripping back the surrounding surface down to bare metal as well. You could just apply whatever product you decide to use to the visible areas, but you gotta expect more of it to be lurking beneath the unaffected areas.
Hello!
Little update on the research i have made towards finding the best product / method to tackle the job.
I found this post on facebook by Danielle Tadla which I found very interesting in the method she used and the products that she applied to complete this job. https://www.facebook.com/groups/hond...47206968927981
So... from looking at this post, the same rust spot on the inner arch has appeared on this s2000 and the only way is to cut and re weld a new metal plate in its place, which is ok for me.
The products I seen to be used was "Bilt Hamber products" / detox 80, zinc primer..
It is kinda interesting to see that the arches / inner liner where stripped down to bear metal even tho so spots seemed in very good condition... my only guess it has been done like this to see if anything is hiding under the original coat... since your at this stage might aswell do everything from ground up.
Update On the process of my operation...
After countless hours spent searching for the appropriate products to use for the under body of my car, I have decided on range of products from Bilt-Hamber. From Rust converters / Zinc Primers / Paint coats to Wax underseal. Before the national lockdown also bought various wire wheel brushes along with angle grinder discs and 1.5mm sheet of steel for welding in the spot where rust needs to be cut out.
Last week in the process to prepare the car for disassembly I have power washed the arches along with underbody, dried it out and sprayed with WD-40 for the bolts and nuts to penetrate.
Hopefully will have the car in garage in next few weeks to begin dropping rear subframe etc...
Below adding more photos for the record
WD40 is not a penetrating lubricant. Technically its not a lubricant at all. Its a Water Displacement product. You can sometimes use it as a lubricant, but it makes a very poor penetrating oil. Using an actual penetrating oil will have much better results.
How many sets of jack stands are holding up this car? It looks like stands on one end, and ONLY THE TROLLY JACK on the other end. Maybe its just the photos. But never, NEVER EVER go under a car held up only with a jack (or even just one end held up by jack).
You put the wheels under the car, which is an excellent backup safety measure. But it no way is a substitute for jack stands.
People from this forum have died from cars falling on them. It does happen. Its not worth the risk.
Buy a sandblaster if you dont have one and learn how to use it safely. All the steel bits can be blasted and then either painted or powdercoated. I used to powdercoat parts in my ex girlfriends garage because her dad had an old oven which we used to bake the parts. All the brackets and bolts can be blasted and then plated, painted or coated. He was plating bolts in his garage on an Alfa rebuild. They turned out like new again, but he got the science down very nicely. You want to use the right media too.
Personally id clean it up and sell this car and pick up a rust free one (it will be easier in the long run) but the right way to do it would be to dry ice media blast the underside and then either re-coat it or cut out the rust and reweld in new metal. Dry ice media because it wont get into the nooks and crannies, it will just evaporate after.
WD40 is not a penetrating lubricant. Technically its not a lubricant at all. Its a Water Displacement product. You can sometimes use it as a lubricant, but it makes a very poor penetrating oil. Using an actual penetrating oil will have much better results.
How many sets of jack stands are holding up this car? It looks like stands on one end, and ONLY THE TROLLY JACK on the other end. Maybe its just the photos. But never, NEVER EVER go under a car held up only with a jack (or even just one end held up by jack).
You put the wheels under the car, which is an excellent backup safety measure. But it no way is a substitute for jack stands.
People from this forum have died from cars falling on them. It does happen. Its not worth the risk.
Perfect ! thanks for pointing it out, I will go and get some proper penetration spray and do it again few days before disassembly...
And no haha I don't have the car just supported using the trolley jack... she was sitting on 4 jack stands rated to 2 ton each plus I just had that trolley jack under the front sub frame locked in
09-23-2020 | 09:56 AM
I am looking for product which is idiot proof 
