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10000 RPM Motor

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Old 07-01-2007, 11:23 PM
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Default 10000 RPM Motor

My car has been down right now for 2 months. Not sure how it happened but it has a bad wrist pin and some other problems. The motor was taken apart a little bit at my uncle's shop one day and then we pushed it outside. My uncle runs a repair shop so both his bays were taken up for the next week. During this time it rained and the humidity on the disassembled engine has caused a significant amount of rust. We are figuring that we are going to have to completely disassemble the engine anyways now with the rust and the wrist pin. I said if this ever happened that I was going to upgrade. I already know that I am going to have some head work done, but I want to redo the internals. I am wanting a 10,000 RPM motor for the street now. I want to know how I can go about doing this safely. I have always had a fascination with being able to pull 10 g's (F1 style) but I'm afraid to get there I'm going to have to blow 10 g's. Just don't give me crap for thinking about doing this, just looking for answers to my questions. Thanks...

1. Can I use the stock cams? I know I'm only increasing the rev limit by 1000 rpms, but do they still produce power at that rpm?

2. What would be the weak point of the motor at that rpm, the top end or the bottom end? I was going to change out the valves and valve springs anyways, so I guess I'm wondering if I even need to upgrade rods and pistons even though it's a good idea.

3. I was planning on having the head milled down and use a Cometic head gasket to raise the compression ratio; would I need to keep the stock compression ratio or what would be the highest I can go?

4. Will the stock fuel system work for this 1000 rpm increase? Injectors, fuel pump?

5. I love NA, but the power of Turbo may call me next tax return. If I end up doing these upgrades and change compression ratio, would I be able to still add a turbo or supercharger with the stronger internals if i still ran low boost? (did that sound right?)

6. I know I will need an AEM EMS, but is there anything else needed for this that I'm not thinking of, cooling system, drivetrain?

7. I'll think of more questions to add since I'm writing this at 3am and took a sleeping pill at 11pm so my head is not all there. Hell, this post may not even make since. I'll probably read it in the morning and think I'm a jack-tard and ban myself from late night posting, but any help with these questions would be appreciated
Old 07-01-2007, 11:43 PM
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I'm no expert, but do the math on piston velocity / accelleration. You might need to destroke.
Old 07-02-2007, 12:59 AM
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You will be losing power up there at that altitude of 10k...

I presume the top part will be your main concern first because the valves could be hitting the pistons at that speed. If I'm correct the valves would hit the pistons at about 10250rpm on the F20...
Old 07-02-2007, 03:57 AM
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I would be very surprised indeed if you could do this with stock stroke. Since you're going to go custom with the crankshaft and con rods anyway, though, I'd bet that 75.7mm will be your goal. This would preserve the piston speed, and probably help with volumetric efficiency at elevated RPM. Of course, V.E. will be less of a concern with forced induction...

Of course, I agree that stiffer valve springs (and perhaps lighter valves) would probably be necessary for such a build. I'm afraid I don't know enough about the cam profiles to say anything intelligent about what/whether you'd have to change there. It might be enough to change the phase of the cams, but like I said, I really don't know.

Anyway, good luck!
Old 07-02-2007, 11:38 AM
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I don't think this will benefit you at all.. other than the coolness factor. Power will probably start to drop precipitously after 9200.
Old 07-02-2007, 01:42 PM
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Most AP1 motors stop making power around 9k rpms, no reason to go any higher.
Old 07-02-2007, 01:44 PM
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Simple. Just get going about 100 mph in fourth, then downshift to third. Instant 10,000 rpm motor.
Old 07-02-2007, 03:15 PM
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There is a car, rail type drag car, running an F20C. It turns 7.5 seconds in the 1/4 and revs to 12k. It is N/A and pushing about 350whp. So yes it can be done.
Old 07-02-2007, 03:54 PM
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Go read those tuner magazine. that make an F20C to F23C that pump out around 300whp (or less, cant recall)
Old 07-02-2007, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Stratocaster,Jul 2 2007, 04:15 PM
There is a car, rail type drag car, running an F20C. It turns 7.5 seconds in the 1/4 and revs to 12k. It is N/A and pushing about 350whp. So yes it can be done.
Does the engine have to be rebuilt after every pass?


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