mrcbr600

I have dtc-70 front and rear and the fronts have 3 days on them and still have half life, rears only have 2 days and only have 3mm left on inside pads. I would have thought the rears would last longer than the fronts?? Just HPDE, car is/was NA running R comps. Any thoughts??

ndogg

Do you have ducts? I had the same problem with dtc-60. My guess was that the fronts overheated and faded causing rears to become overused... Hoping my new front ducts help.

CKit

DTC 70 is pretty aggressive on the rear of this car. Thinking that it was being overused due to bias and burned up quickly. Did your braking seem less efficient during the braking zones?

Usually if you stagger pad compound S2000s wear pretty evenly front to back. Try a DTC 60 or HT10 in the rear?

robrob

I you guys get tired of burning up rear wheel bearings and expensive track pads a Racingbrake rear big brake kit will solve the problem. My rear pads are lasting for freakin' ever. The kit uses the stock caliper but a larger diameter and thicker 2-piece rotor so you can't put two full size pads in at the same time. RacingBrake will sell you the slightly thinner pad and I'm pretty sure Carbotech will make you thinner pads for no additional charge, but I just replace one pad at a time so I have two thick Cobalt XR3 pads in the rear inside and two old thin XR3 pads in the rear outside. I've been waiting forever for the thin pads to wear down so I can drop the new XR3 pads into their place, but they just don't wear. The rear hub is running about 200 degrees F cooler too.

PaddyMcP

Sounds like you are out of the heat range for the 70's. It can be too cold for the pad too. It's not always too hot for the pad, it can be running at too cold of a temp. This has happened to me. How cold was the ambient temp? dtc60's last me about 30 track days with no rear ducts. That's with dtc70 front and 60's rear.

Did you bed them properly?

The hawk guys told me 70's were too high a heat range for the rear of an s2000.

-Paddy

PaddyMcP

Rob, what are you getting for rear hub temps on the old oem equipment? What tool did you measure with?

-paddy

robrob

I used a standard IR non-contact thermometer to measure the brake disk and caliper temps (disk temps were always hotter). My rear stock rotors with XP8 pads ran in the mid 400s after a cool down lap. The RacingBrake two-piece rotors run in the mid 200s. I'm now running Cobalt XR3s in the rear and they feel great and last forever--seriously.

I just re-read your post and realize you're asking about hub temps. I don't recall the exact numbers but I believe they ran in the upper 200s with the stock brakes and over 100 degrees cooler with the 2-piece rotors.

Croc

i see that rear's rotor temp is much higher than front - in my case i see ~200 degf F difference (no ducting front/rear).
2 piece vented rear rotor make sense.
too bad it's so expensive.
my next mode is rear ducting....

mrcbr600

Well, I was basing this off what my shop had told me when they did an annual inspection for me, but when I pulled the rear brakes, they had plenty of meat on both sides, I'd say 70% left. Dunno where they got 3mm left on inside pads. And I originally ordered dtc-60's from raceshopper.com but they sent me the 70's instead and my track day was in a couple days so I had to use them.

I ha my 1st track day of the year and just installed my supercharger kit that had been sitting in my garage for over two years and my brakes held up fine. I never got to complete a full session due to lack of a catch can and blowing oil everywhere and running over a staple and losing one of my r6's. good shake down for the first of the year but I have some things to work on! Sure is nice going from 197 whp to 300whp!

kraft

+1