ShocK

^^ lol, hey I thought you knew something I didn't

ShocK

I don't see the hubs as a wear item honestly, unless you let the bearing totally destroy everything from prolonged driving. Right now the grease has simply all leaked out and they bearings are clicking when changing direction of spinning but there is no movement in the hub. Honda is going to warranty the part for me since it was done less than a year ago.

Which part are you suggesting replacement?

ShocK

So the hub had some very odd looking fatigue marks on it, got a new hub and bearing. Got the sindle off the car in 18 minutes with hand tools lol. I'll post pics later ShocK.

nissanfanatic

I agree. I would like to see some sort of measurements/empirical data supporting the alleged fact that rear hubs need to be replaced along with the bearing. The only reason I could ever see that people would replace the hub with the bearing is because when you press the old hub out out, the inner race from the worn bearing presses out on the hub. I always had to cut the race with a dremel to get it off.

...

One thing I am considering is taking the bearing to a place in town here called "Bearings and Drives Inc" and seeing if they can reassemble the bearing using some Redline CV-2 grease and maintain the sealed integrity of the bearing.

crash

hubs will fail on race cars with r-comps and good grip.
I have seen at least 3 fail

Voodoo_S2K

I've got 180k miles on my car with ~5k of track miles and I just put in my 2nd set of replacement rear bearings. I had to replace the hub, as I drove on the bad bearing for too long.

cracknut

I did some bearing research after reading robrob's writeup. Here's what I found:
- OEM bearings are made by NSK, $55.51 from HPD or ~$50 from http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/whe...nda/s2000.html
- Other good wheel bearing makers=SFK, FAG (german), Koyo, and Timken. Apparently Timken sources parts from various locations and quality may vary but generally they're good.
- Amazon has S2k spec Timken bearings for ~$30 (bought 2 as spares): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZ5108

ShocK

So here we are again, back at square one. I attended a track day in early July and have yet another fried wheel bearing, I can hear it clicking when I change directions in a parking lot. I think I'm going to vent the rear brakes and see if that solves the issue of frying the bearings seals. Of course I'll have to install a new wheel bearing again lol... I got smart and bought it from the dealer, so this time I can return it as a defective part.

FISH22

Are you applying the right torque to the spindle nut?

It's supposed to be 220 ft lbs.

Duke Togo

two words - run out

it's something not often checked especially when replacing rear disks and it's an indicator somethings wrong.

and to answer your question - yes there are much better options available

http://www.ceramicbearing.com/cerami...rformance.html