what size wheels and tires u prefer for race track
#71
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Originally Posted by stocky' date='Feb 23 2005, 01:50 PM
If you change from a narrow tyre (ex 205) to a wider one (ex 245) the contact patch of the tyre doesn't change significantly.
It only changes its size from longitudinal to more transversal.
It only changes its size from longitudinal to more transversal.
#72
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Stocky,
I think it's best at this point if we cease trying to convince you of one thing or another. The best suggestion I have is to try things yourself - get a set of OEM 16" wheels (225/245 tires), OEM 17" wheels (225/255 tires), and some custom lightweight 18" wheels (18x9 front, 18x10 rear with 245fr, 285/30rr tires). You might be able to find someone to lend you some. To be scientific, all tires should be of the same brand and compound.
Spend a day, or weekend with each at the 'ring in similar conditions. Give yourself enough time to get familiar with each wheel/tire combination, and if so inclined, make needed adjustments to spring rates and damper settings. Take note of corner exit speeds and how the car seems to be handling to you. Finally, take note of your laptimes.
Perhaps afterwards you'll be convinced. If not, it may be an idiosyncracy of the 'ring, or it could be you're just not driving hard enough to take advantage of the extra grip.
The thing is, several of us here have already gone through this exercise, on multiple cars, some more powerful than the S2000, some less so. This advice isn't from one instructor at one school, it's the sum of many years' experience building multiple cars for multiple racing classes. In fact, the FIRST thing I always do is find what maximum wheel/tire sizes I can run, and build the rest of the car around those maximums.
Of course there will always be exceptions (Bonneville, banked ovals, etc.), but I think that this situation falls well within the spectrum of circumstances where "as big as you can get will be fastest".
Good luck!
I think it's best at this point if we cease trying to convince you of one thing or another. The best suggestion I have is to try things yourself - get a set of OEM 16" wheels (225/245 tires), OEM 17" wheels (225/255 tires), and some custom lightweight 18" wheels (18x9 front, 18x10 rear with 245fr, 285/30rr tires). You might be able to find someone to lend you some. To be scientific, all tires should be of the same brand and compound.
Spend a day, or weekend with each at the 'ring in similar conditions. Give yourself enough time to get familiar with each wheel/tire combination, and if so inclined, make needed adjustments to spring rates and damper settings. Take note of corner exit speeds and how the car seems to be handling to you. Finally, take note of your laptimes.
Perhaps afterwards you'll be convinced. If not, it may be an idiosyncracy of the 'ring, or it could be you're just not driving hard enough to take advantage of the extra grip.
The thing is, several of us here have already gone through this exercise, on multiple cars, some more powerful than the S2000, some less so. This advice isn't from one instructor at one school, it's the sum of many years' experience building multiple cars for multiple racing classes. In fact, the FIRST thing I always do is find what maximum wheel/tire sizes I can run, and build the rest of the car around those maximums.
Of course there will always be exceptions (Bonneville, banked ovals, etc.), but I think that this situation falls well within the spectrum of circumstances where "as big as you can get will be fastest".
Good luck!
#73
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Hi jzr,
it's not that I don't believe you...I just wanna get to know all aspects.
Thanks fo rall the ideas and advices!
Did you check out the video to see how straights vs. curves are?!
personally I think there are lots of straights but then again there are about 80 curves...
it's not that I don't believe you...I just wanna get to know all aspects.
Thanks fo rall the ideas and advices!
Did you check out the video to see how straights vs. curves are?!
personally I think there are lots of straights but then again there are about 80 curves...
#75
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not to get off topic but I am in the process of getting new wheels...
I was going to buy 17" CE28N's but a fellow member offered me his 18" LE28N's with both street tires and a set of Toyo RA-1's for a great great price. I am getting the whole set (wheels, 2 sets of tires) for less than what it would cost for me buy the 17" CE28N's and street tires. I wasn't planning on 18's but its a deal I cannot pass up. I am wondering if they're ok for tracking as i do about 5-6 events per summer. The member I am getting them from has tracked them and said he actually did better with them (timer said 2 seconds better) but knowing our cars, that could be all driver. I read through this whole thread but we didn't go over 18's. I appreciate the responses. Thanks in advance!
I was going to buy 17" CE28N's but a fellow member offered me his 18" LE28N's with both street tires and a set of Toyo RA-1's for a great great price. I am getting the whole set (wheels, 2 sets of tires) for less than what it would cost for me buy the 17" CE28N's and street tires. I wasn't planning on 18's but its a deal I cannot pass up. I am wondering if they're ok for tracking as i do about 5-6 events per summer. The member I am getting them from has tracked them and said he actually did better with them (timer said 2 seconds better) but knowing our cars, that could be all driver. I read through this whole thread but we didn't go over 18's. I appreciate the responses. Thanks in advance!
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