Topplayer

for me even in 90+ ambient the small oil cooler works as long as you have the right rad behind it... that big of a unit will blow hot air right thought the rad, never giving it clean air??

I wonder if you could do a v mount and keep the a.c condenser, I would love that

Andrie

Take off the fan. The fan only obstructing the air flow. Have the fan turn on at full blast and stick your hand in the path of air flow. Now drive your car 25 mph and stick your hand out of the window. Which one blow harder?

The fan will only obstruct air flow for car moving over 25 mph. The surface area of the fan block and prevent the airflow to move faster.

SlowTeg

If you guys aren't running brake ducts ever thought about putting an oil cooler behind the bumper ducts on one side? Seems like it'd work and worth a shot imo.

ringo14

how new is your a/c condenser , ive seen many blocked up condensers causing issues, make sure its new and the fins are straight.... on the street move your plate, ive ran the plate connected directly to the bumper with the bottom plate holes and bent it rearward a bit...looks funny and sticks up like a bug defector on a truck lol, but keeps the opening clean

Topplayer

I dont know how you track a FI s2000 let alone na without brake ducts so that wouldnt work for me...

I just dont understand how a smaller oil cooler doesnt work for you. Maybe because your rad is bad? I saw my coolent temps drop by 15-20 degreess with the dual pass unit using honda 50/50 if I used 80/20 or water and water wetter Im sure it would be better.

I have also seen some CRAZY leaf build up behind condensers too, so id check that.

Brutus

Water wetter might be enough. I think it has an anti-foam agent that aids heat exchange.

ringo14

you can remove or relocate that horn , i removed mine, there is second horn ..its not as loud with one but still works

riceball777

I use to have over heating problems and 2 spal 12 inch extreme performance fans solved my problem 100%

I have a huge 1000hp garret core front mount intercooler with a large oil cooler then The stock ac condenser than a mishimoto radiator. The radiator got no air and would over heat only at freeway speed. At idel water temps were in the 180-190. The faster the car Cruz the hotter it got. When crusing 80mph the water temps would be over 220 and would cool as speeds droped under 40mph. This is because the radiator only got air flow from the fans and the faster I went airflow did not improve.

The mishimoto fans, stock fans or spal medium profile fans did not help as they do not flow enough. The spal high performance did help a lot but the problem was 100% solved with dual spal extreme proformance fans.

Your other option is the dual pass radiator

Your other option is to remove the heat exchanges (ac, oil cooler, after cooler)or remount them so they are not infront of the radiator.

nissanfanatic

Same. I assumed that he had an extremely badass oil cooler/ducting setup.

nissanfanatic

I am planning to go to 100% water with MoCool.

I did find this test:

http://forums.nicoclub.com/diy-test-...s-t146241.html

So I believe there is some anti-corrosion properties to Water Wetter. I may try something similar with dish soap though to see if it provides the same level of protection.

The benefit I see to MoCool is that you can mix it at a lot lower concentration than typical coolant and still get the anti-corrosion prevention. IIRC, MoCool is a 5% mixture ratio.

Most importantly, at a track event I would not want to be the douche that shuts the track down for two hours while workers bust their ass cleaning up coolant.