Vented hood on the cheap
#21
So you're saying that the primary goal is to increase flow through the radiator?
If we discount aero and just take air flow through radiator as a primary goal, then there are much better ways of doing it than this hood.
Cooling plate for radiator.
Foam insulate and tape around sides of radiator and add nose splitter so ALL NOSE AIR has to go through radiator.
If we discount aero and just take air flow through radiator as a primary goal, then there are much better ways of doing it than this hood.
Cooling plate for radiator.
Foam insulate and tape around sides of radiator and add nose splitter so ALL NOSE AIR has to go through radiator.
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...erheating.aspx
And if you look at the front of the hood, it has a pseudo cooling plate built-in.
Then cut away all bottom trays so that there is no resistance to flow exit. Or run with no hood. Or cut big ass holes to reduce resistance. If you're talking about increasing radiator flow, I'll still wager that big ass vent holes will be more important to flow than louvers because we're talking about high pressure exit.
Again, like an exhaust, you want a wider orifice rather than flaps.
Again, like an exhaust, you want a wider orifice rather than flaps.
Riddle me this, why do so many race cars use louvers to help evacuate air from unducted areas such as engine bays and wheel wells if just a big opening is better?
The only time I see just open holes is when the heat exchanger is fully ducted to the hole like Scandinavin mentioned; the air only has one place to go which is out the duct and the hole. If no duct, it can circulate in and around the engine bay:
As for your exhaust example, there's a huge difference. The engine is pushing the exhaust out and the engine is a pretty strong pump. For airflow pushing air through the radiator and engine bay, there's just the stagnation pressure of the air pushing it through. To make an electrical circuit analogy, the air pressure is voltage (V), the mass flow of air is current (I), and the resistance R is everything restricting the air flow(radiator, oil cooler, engine, air box, steering rack, everything in the way between the hole in the nose and any escape path out of the engine bay). From school back in the day, V=IR. Voltage is a constant that's determined by your driving speed. So for a given voltage, your flow is dependent on your resistance. Increase resistance and there's less flow. Decrease your resistance (venting the hood), and flow increases. Based on the theory presented, the louvers will reduce the resistance more than just an open hole.
So... present some theory, science, or real world examples to support your thought.
#22
So you're saying that the primary goal is to increase flow through the radiator?
If we discount aero and just take air flow through radiator as a primary goal, then there are much better ways of doing it than this hood.
Cooling plate for radiator.
Foam insulate and tape around sides of radiator and add nose splitter so ALL NOSE AIR has to go through radiator.
If we discount aero and just take air flow through radiator as a primary goal, then there are much better ways of doing it than this hood.
Cooling plate for radiator.
Foam insulate and tape around sides of radiator and add nose splitter so ALL NOSE AIR has to go through radiator.
You mean like this done three years ago?
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...erheating.aspx
And if you look at the front of the hood, it has a pseudo cooling plate built-in.
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...erheating.aspx
And if you look at the front of the hood, it has a pseudo cooling plate built-in.
Then cut away all bottom trays so that there is no resistance to flow exit. Or run with no hood. Or cut big ass holes to reduce resistance. If you're talking about increasing radiator flow, I'll still wager that big ass vent holes will be more important to flow than louvers because we're talking about high pressure exit.
Again, like an exhaust, you want a wider orifice rather than flaps.
Again, like an exhaust, you want a wider orifice rather than flaps.
Well, there's always the trade-off between cooling efficiency and drag. No undertray and hood would really jack up your drag. You do realize that the openings created by the flaps is very nearly the same area as if you just cut holes right? If actual louvers were custom designed, the area would be the same.
Riddle me this, why do so many race cars use louvers to help evacuate air from unducted areas such as engine bays and wheel wells if just a big opening is better?
The only time I see just open holes is when the heat exchanger is fully ducted to the hole like Scandinavin mentioned; the air only has one place to go which is out the duct and the hole. If no duct, it can circulate in and around the engine bay:
It'd take less time and effort to do that then cut little separate side louvers. Use some scrap aluminum and foam and there you go.
Like I said, why not just duct the back of the radiator, too and vent that out to a big, flat center vent. Louver the leading edge if you like.
And hey, here's a thought! Get rid of the AC condenser blocking the radiator before hacking up the hood! Bingo! Improved air flow.
If you like using race examples, then find me a race car with AC.
It's again that weird mish mash. Cut hood + scraps of fire blanket? Trying to get better flow through a radiator, but blocking it with an AC condenser?
Is it a street car? Is it a race car? Is it a street car trying to be a race car?
It just doesn't seem purpose built enough. And to rock a hood like that, it'd have to be super hard core built for me to not be embarrassed.
It's like putting titanium lug nuts on steel wheels.
#23
For the Subarus, they vent the engine bay out the fender vents out both sides. Structural slats, but not louvered.
For rear engined cars, surface area predominates. Slats are to keep flow laminar, rather than a frank louver to lift flow. All the black mesh is vent.
I'm not arguing that louvers aren't useful. I'm saying that I don't think a few puny louvers are going to make up for only having those small cut outs. Louver all six panels and get rid of the AC and you might be in business. But for simplicity, I'd just do the six cuts and use rubber trim strips to help either with leading edge or lagging edge.
Or get some cheap aluminum duct work and vent the backside of the radiator out to a big center cut. Louvers optional.
For some reason, dubiously functional stuff on street cars that look amateurish walks a fine line between race and rice.
Not saying that it doesn't have some function, but not nearly enough to justify what it looks like for me. If other people like it, great. But throwing out some high school physics equations doesn't mean it's cohesively engineered.
I'd take out the AC or duct the back of the radiator to a center hood vent if I needed more cooling before making the car look like that.
Removing the AC will do more for radiator airflow than the hood vents (I think) and it's also a "free" mod.
Actually, now that I think about it... the cheapest, easiest and most effective hood venting mod would probably be to remove all the plastic shrouding up by the windshield wiper so that the airflow could come up and over the windshield. If you could use a longer hinge or spacers to lift the tail end of the hood 1-2cm up you'd get crazy good airflow through the bay.
For the record, I think the louvers are "fine" and if the thread was, "hey, I had time and was bored and made some slits in my hood because I think it's cool" I'd be like, "cool bro." But I wanted to bring out physics counterpoints and questions to the efficacy of this mod so that the casual reader would have a counterpoint to consider.
The comments on the original link basically echo the criticism in this thread. And did you really pay $200 for that hood just to do that do it?! That's not free.
#26
Actually, now that I think about it... the cheapest, easiest and most effective hood venting mod would probably be to remove all the plastic shrouding up by the windshield wiper so that the airflow could come up and over the windshield. If you could use a longer hinge or spacers to lift the tail end of the hood 1-2cm up you'd get crazy good airflow through the bay.
#27
That could very well be possible. Anything can happen when starting to add aftermarket piecemeal hacks and parts. Who knows what the interplay between louvers and windshield are for that matter, too. Or how it works in relation to height of hood gap. Maybe hood gap would work if you sealed the sides? Don't know.
Which is why I wouldn't necessarily recommend any of it.
I'd think fully boxing the nose to increase laminarity of flow in would have the same effect (increased flow past the rad fins) as cutting the hood.
I'm confident that you could do that for less than $200 in cost (the cost of that spare hood).
I think boxing the nose and box venting the back of radiator + wide, flat center vent would be very effective and cost less than $200 and take less time than the multiple little cuts.
But then again, with an aftermarket rad, no AC and OEM hood, people have been able to keep water temps down to 180-190 so I don't really see the point to added rad flow.
Venting heat from engine bay to save shocks and rubber hoses, fine. But then we're back to bigger holes over louvers. Or bigger holes + leading lips rather than small holes with louvers.
One thing that the commenters on the original motoIQ thread brought up is that the louvers lose their effectiveness because they're cut on the sides. They'd have to be sealed there to get the real louver effect.
So again, a little bit underbaked and oversimplified of an original solution to a problem I'm not sure existed.
Just my opinion, but I feel consistent with the physics and relative contributions of each variable that I understand.
Which is why I wouldn't necessarily recommend any of it.
I'd think fully boxing the nose to increase laminarity of flow in would have the same effect (increased flow past the rad fins) as cutting the hood.
I'm confident that you could do that for less than $200 in cost (the cost of that spare hood).
I think boxing the nose and box venting the back of radiator + wide, flat center vent would be very effective and cost less than $200 and take less time than the multiple little cuts.
But then again, with an aftermarket rad, no AC and OEM hood, people have been able to keep water temps down to 180-190 so I don't really see the point to added rad flow.
Venting heat from engine bay to save shocks and rubber hoses, fine. But then we're back to bigger holes over louvers. Or bigger holes + leading lips rather than small holes with louvers.
One thing that the commenters on the original motoIQ thread brought up is that the louvers lose their effectiveness because they're cut on the sides. They'd have to be sealed there to get the real louver effect.
So again, a little bit underbaked and oversimplified of an original solution to a problem I'm not sure existed.
Just my opinion, but I feel consistent with the physics and relative contributions of each variable that I understand.
#28
Why not just duct the radiator to a big center slat? Air in through ducted nose, and then back the radiator before the air hits the engine. Keep the flow laminar and vent it up and out to a similarly sized center vent. You can louver the leading edge if you like.
It'd take less time and effort to do that then cut little separate side louvers. Use some scrap aluminum and foam and there you go.
It'd take less time and effort to do that then cut little separate side louvers. Use some scrap aluminum and foam and there you go.
Like I said, why not just duct the back of the radiator, too and vent that out to a big, flat center vent. Louver the leading edge if you like.
]And hey, here's a thought! Get rid of the AC condenser blocking the radiator before hacking up the hood! Bingo! Improved air flow.
If you like using race examples, then find me a race car with AC. [/size]
]And hey, here's a thought! Get rid of the AC condenser blocking the radiator before hacking up the hood! Bingo! Improved air flow.
If you like using race examples, then find me a race car with AC. [/size]
It's again that weird mish mash. Cut hood + scraps of fire blanket? Trying to get better flow through a radiator, but blocking it with an AC condenser?
Is it a street car? Is it a race car? Is it a street car trying to be a race car?[/size]
It just doesn't seem purpose built enough. And to rock a hood like that, it'd have to be super hard core built for me to not be embarrassed.
It's like putting titanium lug nuts on steel wheels.
Is it a street car? Is it a race car? Is it a street car trying to be a race car?[/size]
It just doesn't seem purpose built enough. And to rock a hood like that, it'd have to be super hard core built for me to not be embarrassed.
It's like putting titanium lug nuts on steel wheels.
Oh, and about their hoods:
#30
I disagree with your pseudo-engineering. None of the examples you cite use louvers that look like yours.
If you can find examples of louvers that rise above the hood plane and are open on the sides, then I might buy your argument. But not with the hacking of the original build.
I'd say that was a waste of $200 and two hours.
Going with louver theory, I'd say cut out front four holes and make a recessed set of louvers out of wood or plastic if you like. Cover with a screen to make it look more finished. There are plenty of engineered examples of that.
So yes, louver theory.
No, hacked flaps that tuft up with open sides.
If you can find examples of louvers that rise above the hood plane and are open on the sides, then I might buy your argument. But not with the hacking of the original build.
I'd say that was a waste of $200 and two hours.
Going with louver theory, I'd say cut out front four holes and make a recessed set of louvers out of wood or plastic if you like. Cover with a screen to make it look more finished. There are plenty of engineered examples of that.
So yes, louver theory.
No, hacked flaps that tuft up with open sides.