Turning Over Rotors
04-30-2012, 08:56 AM
#11
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i've never turned s2000 rotors before.
just ensure that all the brake compounds are compatible. if not, turn the rotors or drive around with your race pads to scrape off the the old transfer layer (I do option 2)
just ensure that all the brake compounds are compatible. if not, turn the rotors or drive around with your race pads to scrape off the the old transfer layer (I do option 2)
04-30-2012, 10:45 AM
#12
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Does anyone know if the Hawk HP+ pads are made of abrasive materials and will be able to scrape off the old transfer layer at low temps? I have already bedded them in, but I will check the rotors later today for uneven pad deposits. Will I be still be able to scrape off the new deposits as well as the old transfer layer if I do have uneven deposits? Thanks for all the advice!
04-30-2012, 10:45 AM
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04-30-2012, 11:10 AM
#14
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Those screws in the rotors are very soft and easy to drill out. When the head of the screw pops off remove the rotor and you can unscrew the rest of the screw with pliers. Mine actually came out by hand. The screws are not needed but if you do use them then put some anti-seize on the face and thread of the screws and they only need 7.2 lb-ft of torque. Get one of those impact drivers for the tool chest, it will come in handy many times.
04-30-2012, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by aCab' timestamp='1335801334' post='21655558
I wouldn't turn them. Turning them makes them thinner, causing them to heat up and cool down quicker - which makes them much more prone to crack. Ask me how I know. 
Like this:
04-30-2012, 12:05 PM
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^ Damn.... Would the cracking have anything to do with bigger tires since you'd have better grip and be able to brake harder increasing the temps a lot? I only have 225's all around on stock ap1 wheels.
05-01-2012, 08:36 AM
#17
Originally Posted by OVER 9000!' timestamp='1335811550' post='21656242
[quote name='aCab' timestamp='1335801334' post='21655558']
I wouldn't turn them. Turning them makes them thinner, causing them to heat up and cool down quicker - which makes them much more prone to crack. Ask me how I know.
I wouldn't turn them. Turning them makes them thinner, causing them to heat up and cool down quicker - which makes them much more prone to crack. Ask me how I know.
Like this:
[/quote]
I did one like that, too. It was the result of a sticky brake caliper and not enough cool-down time before stopping to cool the crazy amount of heat it had built up. Even for calipers that are working right, you gotta give them a lot of time to cool after you come off track before you stop the car.
05-01-2012, 09:00 AM
#18
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You also need to buy yourself an impact driver for those screws, they're like 10-15 bucks at sears.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2&blockType=G2
I guess they're 20-25 bucks
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2&blockType=G2
I guess they're 20-25 bucks
How to remove rotor screws
05-01-2012, 09:22 AM
#19
Originally Posted by macr88' timestamp='1335767393' post='21654633
You also need to buy yourself an impact driver for those screws, they're like 10-15 bucks at sears.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2&blockType=G2
I guess they're 20-25 bucks
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2&blockType=G2
I guess they're 20-25 bucks
How to remove rotor screws
05-01-2012, 09:50 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by aCab' timestamp='1335815695' post='21656501
[quote name='OVER 9000!' timestamp='1335811550' post='21656242']
[quote name='aCab' timestamp='1335801334' post='21655558']
I wouldn't turn them. Turning them makes them thinner, causing them to heat up and cool down quicker - which makes them much more prone to crack. Ask me how I know.
[quote name='aCab' timestamp='1335801334' post='21655558']
I wouldn't turn them. Turning them makes them thinner, causing them to heat up and cool down quicker - which makes them much more prone to crack. Ask me how I know.
Like this:
[/quote]
I did one like that, too. It was the result of a sticky brake caliper and not enough cool-down time before stopping to cool the crazy amount of heat it had built up. Even for calipers that are working right, you gotta give them a lot of time to cool after you come off track before you stop the car.
[/quote]
How long would you suggest letting them cool down? And how? Just go easy on the last lap and let them cool off before going off the track?