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Tire question for BS AP1 setups

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Old 11-28-2012, 12:02 PM
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^ very true!
Old 11-30-2012, 05:12 AM
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Just so I'm 100% clear, the 275 hoosier WILL work on the rear of the AP1 in stock trim?

Any experience if it is even worth it on a 7.5in rim?

thanks
Old 11-30-2012, 07:04 AM
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It fits, but makes the already tall second gear really, really tall. The few people who tried it found themselves going significantly slower as a result. You might be able to find their posts if you search for a bit.

Gearing aside, fit isn't an issue -- remember that CRs run 275s on their 7" fronts.
Old 11-30-2012, 07:11 AM
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Hmm: looks like Schillings liked the big tire on at least some courses:

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/615...er-on-a-75-rim

(wsj3200 on that thread is one of the Schillings.)

Keep in mind that California courses tend to be faster than most.
Old 11-30-2012, 07:23 AM
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I had high fender liner wear on my AP1 and have posted here about it. Heck, I wore holes through my fender liners after 6 runs on the practice course at Nationals with 245s!

However, I had two factors that likely caused this:

1. The original valving in my Penskes had extremely aggressive rebound valving, I think that caused the car to jack down over any bumps until the car was riding on the bumpstops. The car was stupidly harsh over any bumps and quite challenging to drive. (My car helped JeffJ get his worst result ever at Nats - he barely trophied! )

2. I jacked the hubs above ride height before tightening all the control arm bolts. This lowered ride height by almost an inch, which likely didn't help with the above. This is legal using this rule: (Likely up for debate )
13.8.B
Both the front and rear suspension may be adjusted through their
designed range of adjustment by use of factory adjustment arrangements
or by taking advantage of inherent manufacturing tolerances.
This encompasses both alignment and ride height parameters if such
adjustments are provided by the stock components and specified by
the factory as normal methods of adjustment.


What I'm getting at is that I likely brought my fender wear on myself with my choices, so I think my data point should be discarded.
Old 11-30-2012, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by captain_pants
2. I jacked the hubs above ride height before tightening all the control arm bolts. This lowered ride height by almost an inch, which likely didn't help with the above.
Forget the tire rub, I want to hear more about this!

Actually, this is not the first time I have heard of this method, but I wasn't sure there was any value in doing it.
Old 11-30-2012, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by BirdShot
Originally Posted by captain_pants' timestamp='1354292591' post='22181687
2. I jacked the hubs above ride height before tightening all the control arm bolts. This lowered ride height by almost an inch, which likely didn't help with the above.
Forget the tire rub, I want to hear more about this!

Actually, this is not the first time I have heard of this method, but I wasn't sure there was any value in doing it.
I would think the most effective and easiest way is to use tie down straps on an lift/alignment rack/trailer.
Old 11-30-2012, 11:24 AM
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^ I'm also curious in the best method to do this.
Old 11-30-2012, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BirdShot
Originally Posted by captain_pants' timestamp='1354292591' post='22181687
2. I jacked the hubs above ride height before tightening all the control arm bolts. This lowered ride height by almost an inch, which likely didn't help with the above.
Forget the tire rub, I want to hear more about this!
It is a great way to rub holes in your fender liners! I'm not sure it's beneficial, as you just hit the bumpstops earlier and sooner. However, all modern cars on stock springs corner on the bumpstops anyway. Too many factors to know, and I haven't done any detailed testing due to laziness, driver inconsistency, laziness, and laziness.

Method: (disclaimer: blah, blah, do this at your own risk)
1. Measure ride height from the center of the hub to the top of the fender.
2. Jack up car, take off wheels.
3. Disconnect one swaybar link on front and rear bars. You can pick the whole front of the car off the stands before ever getting to ride height if a big front bar is still attached.
4. Loosen all suspension pivot bolts.
5. Jack up one hub to a height that's higher than ride height (measurement is smaller than you started with) and tighten* all** bolts. How high? The higher you go, the lower the car will be, and the sooner your bushings will tear themselves apart from the constant stress on them. I think I went about 2" above stock.

* Also push the upper control arm in and pull the lower control arm out to get a little more camber. If you're feeling extra tricky you can loosen the lower front ball joint bolts and do the same. It's not a lot, but why not get what you can while you're spinning wrenches anyway?
** I didn't tighten the lower shock pivot in the compressed position, as that would put a side load in the shock when at ride height. Is that significant? I don't know, so I played it safe. I tightened that one closer to my best guess at the new ride height.

6. Do all corners, reconnect bars, put on wheels, and go for a short drive before re-checking ride height. If you want to get real anal, you could likely corner weight with this same process. My car was nearly perfect after the first shot, maybe I got lucky?

Many S2000 owners commented on my noticeably lower car. My ride height didn't change for 6 months or so of daily driving and autocrossing on an extremely bumpy lot after doing this, then I took it all apart for a shock revalve and didn't bother next time.
Old 12-04-2012, 11:27 AM
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FYI, Reijo has been experimenting with 275 square on his AP1. If looking at the Lincoln result, know that he was actually in a loaner AP2 on day 1 because of a failed wheel bearing during the drive down.

He is running the big ARE front bar full still and I don't believe he was complaining about rubbing.


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