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Taming the 2000 S2K for street/track

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Old 04-30-2014, 08:05 AM
  #21  

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So no track time yet but I have been able to push the car in safe environments. So far I have found the car to be very predictable in rotation, even when the suspension is loading and unloading. I am sensitive to my steering inputs and the car responds beautifully. If I feel the car is rotating too much, I just dial back some steering and it settles right down. I think whats most impressive is how easy the car is to control with small steering adjustments. If anything, I have found it may be too soft in the front. If I dive into a corner, it will roll out a little more in the front. Considering I am on all seasons, it will be interesting to see how much it rolls with better rubber. What was I thinking about with removing the rear bar?!

All things considering, I dealt with a lot more over steer with my old C6 on Phadt suspension.

My plan is still the same:

AP2 wheels tire, for looks and more rear tire bias. Will these add a lot of weight.
Mild lowering springs, like H&R, mostly for looks but I will have to see if it affects the suspension bias.
Alignment with US toes settings and UK camber.
Old 04-30-2014, 10:10 AM
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I don't know how you manage to push the car in safe environments, because nothing about the car is the same on the track as it is on the streets.

The ap2 wheels give you a lot of tire options, so I agree with that as well as a good alignment.

As long as the factory suspension, bushings, ball joints are all in good working order, I would go drive the car as is on the track.

Definitely put some brake lines, pads and good hi temp synthetic dot 4 fluid.

I wouldn't waste money on h&r springs.

If you can control the stock ap1, you can control just about anything. I'm looking forward to my first dance with a stock ap1 someday.


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Old 04-30-2014, 10:53 AM
  #23  

 
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Drive the car first, and THEN start determining what you don't like.

Don't fall into the trap of modding the car first, and then going. Everyone says they're going to go to the track, but the car's not ready yet. Few actually ever make it.
Old 04-30-2014, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by psychoazn
Drive the car first, and THEN start determining what you don't like.

Don't fall into the trap of modding the car first, and then going. Everyone says they're going to go to the track, but the car's not ready yet. Few actually ever make it.
This man speaks the truth


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Old 04-30-2014, 11:29 AM
  #25  
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Just to clearify the 00-01 are outfitted exactly the same susp wise.

Lots of good info in here and some not as accurate. What ive discovered after playing around with toe and alignment and ride heights with my 01 over the last 10 years and really addressing and analyzing the toe issue more specific in more recent past, is this. At stock ride height the toe change is not linear on this model, in fact it seems to sweep positive initially and then to negative but that is ride height dependant, and this design serves no logic to me other then that’s just the way it ended up. Honda addressed it later.

The first easiest thing to do is to actually lower the car aprox 1.5 to 2" so that the lower control arms in the rear are actually near parallel under full droop as to eliminate the first stage of positive toe change under suspension compression, then run an adjustable toe arm and correct the toe arm angle to run parallel to the control arm as well, so there is now min/no influence at all as the suspension compresses through its range and re align the toe settings to this new starting/rest point. You now have shortened the full sweep of the suspension from droop to compression with the shorter/stiffer coilover set up which is half the battle and alleviated most of the toe correction sweep under that suspension throw buy adjusting the toe arm to control arm relationship, allowing for minimal toe change and predictability through the range.

The front is much more forgiving from the factory. Some block spacers under the steering rack is all that’s really needed once lowered to keep the tie rods within a healthy movement range, but really I experience no real bump steer under compression without them, static alignment choice has some influence in this.
Old 04-30-2014, 12:51 PM
  #26  

 
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yeah take it to track and see how's the S is like. I am planning on doing my first autocrossing with my 2001 AP1 this summer. My mods are lowered with bilestiens mainly for looks and running Donlops starspecs stock sizes on a set of AP1 wheels, I also upgraded to front pads to EBC yellowstuff other than that the car is relatively stock and I think I should get a good feel of the S as the way it was intended to be on the track. Oh..I have gotten a Uk spec alignment, handles great on street, can't wait to take it to the track.
Old 05-01-2014, 07:30 AM
  #27  

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For now I am going to learn the car. I will make the changes I posted before. I know H&R lowering springs wont help, but they will help the looks. If they end up being a detriment to handling I will go back to stock. Considering how little drop there is, and the fact I will end up with more rubber on the rear, I would not expect the springs to create many problems.

We will see...
Old 05-01-2014, 09:26 AM
  #28  
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The rear would kick out even when I made slightly spirited right turns but it could've been the crappy tires I've had. Once I replaced the tires and moved the rear to 255, it is fairly neutral. Not as bad as I had thought. Try getting more grip in the rear.
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