Taming the 2000 S2K for street/track
#11
Great info thanks for the help.
So basically, with street tires the suspension wont be loaded enough to dip into the range of significant dynamic toe change? If I pull the rear sway bar, I will load the suspension more (because its softer), will that create more problems? Is that why no one advocates removing the rear bar?
So basically, with street tires the suspension wont be loaded enough to dip into the range of significant dynamic toe change? If I pull the rear sway bar, I will load the suspension more (because its softer), will that create more problems? Is that why no one advocates removing the rear bar?
Yeah, but you'll get more overall grip from the width and handling responsiveness from the shorter sidewalls. Plus they look better (though if they made an AP2-sized version of the AP1 wheels I'd buy them in a heartbeat).
#12
The toe curve is almost 100% linear from 11" to 15" fender to hub. Lowering your car will NOT make the dynamic toe any worse. Nor will running r-comps put you into a range where the toe curve is worse than street tires.
And also, the Eibach front bar is virtually the same rate as your stock one so don't bother with that.
And also, the Eibach front bar is virtually the same rate as your stock one so don't bother with that.
#13
If you yanked the rear bar I imagine the car would plow/understeer like a son of a B on a staggered tire setup like OEM. Run it OEM. The car OEM from the factory handles very well on a road course. Drive it first then think about tinkering w/ it.
#14
#15
The toe curve is almost 100% linear from 11" to 15" fender to hub. Lowering your car will NOT make the dynamic toe any worse. Nor will running r-comps put you into a range where the toe curve is worse than street tires.
And also, the Eibach front bar is virtually the same rate as your stock one so don't bother with that.
And also, the Eibach front bar is virtually the same rate as your stock one so don't bother with that.
the eibach bar on stiff is 418lbs vs cr/ 00,01 bar 392,393
#18
OK,
I already had a set of factory Ap2 wheels in mind. I will try those first and get an alignment with US Toe specs, UK camber specs. I will run it that way for a while. If I feel its too loose I will go for an 04+ rear bar.
If the rear toe is linear through four inches of travel, whats with the early AP1s having a bad rep for oversteer?
I already had a set of factory Ap2 wheels in mind. I will try those first and get an alignment with US Toe specs, UK camber specs. I will run it that way for a while. If I feel its too loose I will go for an 04+ rear bar.
If the rear toe is linear through four inches of travel, whats with the early AP1s having a bad rep for oversteer?
#19
OK,
I already had a set of factory Ap2 wheels in mind. I will try those first and get an alignment with US Toe specs, UK camber specs. I will run it that way for a while. If I feel its too loose I will go for an 04+ rear bar.
If the rear toe is linear through four inches of travel, whats with the early AP1s having a bad rep for oversteer?
I already had a set of factory Ap2 wheels in mind. I will try those first and get an alignment with US Toe specs, UK camber specs. I will run it that way for a while. If I feel its too loose I will go for an 04+ rear bar.
If the rear toe is linear through four inches of travel, whats with the early AP1s having a bad rep for oversteer?
#20
If it's bone stock, it probably has those tiny little 205 front 225 rear tires, give yourself a little margin for error with a set of AP2 17" wheels with the CR tire sizing 215/255, but other than that, get yourself an alignment (a good one), good tires (rs3 v2), brake lines, fluid and go throw the rest of the money at the track!
What's the point of disconnecting the ap1 sway bar? You just turned the sweetest RWD car into a civic.
Throwing money at the problem with r-comps, fancy wheels, bsk, adjustable sway bars, coil overs - you are just masking the problem (you) and at that point you might as well have just started with DBW AP2.
A friend of mine told me, the AP1 will teach the driver how to drive.
Oh I can't stress this enough, if you go to the track, don't take random advice or driving style coaching from anyone but a solid s2000 driver, no one else knows how to tame the car (generally speaking, shifter kart & miata drivers are ok, too).
What's the point of disconnecting the ap1 sway bar? You just turned the sweetest RWD car into a civic.
Throwing money at the problem with r-comps, fancy wheels, bsk, adjustable sway bars, coil overs - you are just masking the problem (you) and at that point you might as well have just started with DBW AP2.
A friend of mine told me, the AP1 will teach the driver how to drive.
Oh I can't stress this enough, if you go to the track, don't take random advice or driving style coaching from anyone but a solid s2000 driver, no one else knows how to tame the car (generally speaking, shifter kart & miata drivers are ok, too).