duffman13

I think the rear bar thing is a preference one. You're going to increase rear grip at the cost of handling sharpness as well as inducing rear body roll, hence why most people would rather use a larger front bar. Most people don't remove the rear bar unless they're chasing every last thousandth of a second - It's technically faster if you have the rest of the suspension right, but removing it takes too much away from an otherwise stock car.

US static settings are more forgiving than the UK settings actually. I don't know them off-hand, but I know more toe-in is dialed in on the US ones, hence my recommendation for US toe with UK camber.

Yeah, but you'll get more overall grip from the width and handling responsiveness from the shorter sidewalls. Plus they look better (though if they made an AP2-sized version of the AP1 wheels I'd buy them in a heartbeat).

ndogg

The toe curve is almost 100% linear from 11" to 15" fender to hub. Lowering your car will NOT make the dynamic toe any worse. Nor will running r-comps put you into a range where the toe curve is worse than street tires.

And also, the Eibach front bar is virtually the same rate as your stock one so don't bother with that.

SlowTeg

If you yanked the rear bar I imagine the car would plow/understeer like a son of a B on a staggered tire setup like OEM. Run it OEM. The car OEM from the factory handles very well on a road course. Drive it first then think about tinkering w/ it.

ringo14

agreed

ringo14

you're right

the eibach bar on stiff is 418lbs vs cr/ 00,01 bar 392,393

iamxpl

IMHO spend $45-60 for an autocross event or $xxx.xx for a track event. Learn the car and your self. then modify as needed.

s2000ellier

running more rear toe is a cheap way to tame the ass however you wear tires faster obviously, so my not be cheap in the end

Apex1.0

OK,

I already had a set of factory Ap2 wheels in mind. I will try those first and get an alignment with US Toe specs, UK camber specs. I will run it that way for a while. If I feel its too loose I will go for an 04+ rear bar.

If the rear toe is linear through four inches of travel, whats with the early AP1s having a bad rep for oversteer?

ndogg

For one, it is a common misconception that lowering the car increases the dynamic toe in AP1. But having said that, even though it is linear, it is still pretty drastic. AP2 toe doesn't really move at all in comparison.

gptoyz

If it's bone stock, it probably has those tiny little 205 front 225 rear tires, give yourself a little margin for error with a set of AP2 17" wheels with the CR tire sizing 215/255, but other than that, get yourself an alignment (a good one), good tires (rs3 v2), brake lines, fluid and go throw the rest of the money at the track!

What's the point of disconnecting the ap1 sway bar? You just turned the sweetest RWD car into a civic.

Throwing money at the problem with r-comps, fancy wheels, bsk, adjustable sway bars, coil overs - you are just masking the problem (you) and at that point you might as well have just started with DBW AP2.

A friend of mine told me, the AP1 will teach the driver how to drive.

Oh I can't stress this enough, if you go to the track, don't take random advice or driving style coaching from anyone but a solid s2000 driver, no one else knows how to tame the car (generally speaking, shifter kart & miata drivers are ok, too).