rlaifatt

[QUOTE]Originally posted by krazik
when you can feel, a tick,tick,tick in the brake pedal at low speed.

TrueDrezzer

Crackzilla. I sometimes have that "warped disc" feel on some corners on the Ring and then on the street the next few days. It goes away after some more street use.

Low speed ticks I haven't noticed, though.

Is it acceptable to turn rotors when using them on the track, or is this a strict no-no? Turning makes financial sense with these 170 EUR stock discs

Have any of you had NO problems with swapping street pads with sport/race pads for track events and then swapping back on the same rotors?

Seems like I can get Spoon drilled rotors cheaper than OEM ones here in Germany. Anyone use them on the track with success?

///Robin

krazik

there is no reason you cant have track rotors turned so long as you stay above the minimum thickness. If it were me I would use my old rotors for the street pads and get new ones for the track.

Have you considered just buying them in bulk from the US? There's no way they'll be even close to that price w/ shipping.

Just buy a bunch at once.

The spoon rotors should work, tho personally I'd stay away from them put that is a personal preference.

Ludedude

I hope you're not talking about turning the rotors once the cracks show.

I have no love for Spoon products either but if they're cheaper than the stock ones I guess you can treat them as disposables

rlaifatt

Truedrezzer, I have no problems with changing street pads and race pads on the same rotors, and I've been doing it for a lot of track days. Also, since you mentioned that there is good cooling of the brakes on the ring, you should probably use a pad compound that operates well at modest temperatures. Check the manufacturers' websites, like Cobalt and Performance Friction.

Raymund

The void in the cracks will disappear as the metal expands under heat. As it cools the void will reappear.

therefor, I think, gauging the rotors life depends more on crack length rather than gap.

Triple-H

[QUOTE]Originally posted by rlaifatt
I have no problems with changing street pads and race pads on the same rotors, and I've been doing it for a lot of track days.

TrueDrezzer

Right, I'm not in it for hot laptimes either, I just want to learn and to have a great time, plus I often take passengers along for a thrill ride.

My rotors have developed discolourations evenly, i.e. directly over the vented sections, as well as the hairline cracks. Over the winter it seems like they have disappeared and the car brakes vibration-free now.

I've picked up a set of OEM pads from the $tealer (not cheap here either!) and will see how a bit of pad swapping fares. I'll keep y'all posted.

///Robin

kitwetzler

Generally, I find that it's best to swap pads the night before. That way you can bed them (10 stops 35-5, then 5 stops 70-10, and let cool) and let them properly cool before beating on them. You'll give up a lot of pad life bedding them at the track, unless you do a really short session.

This is especially true if you want to run hawk blues or cobalt Spec VRs, which tend to be pretty abrasive when cold. The Ferodo compounds aren't as bad about it, and neither are the Porterfield R4.

LAE

I have been using Carbotech Panther Plus pads for a while. http://www.carbotecheurope.com/
http://www.carbotecheng.com/
Three track days plus street plus autocross. Still lots of pad left. Zero fade on the track, OK on the street. Under light braking loads you may get a vibration (squeal), but usually minor. The pads are fairly low dusting and easy on the rotors. For brake fluid I am using NEO.

As for changing pads - track to street, no real need with the Carbotech, but if you do I understand that it is good practice to have pads of the same composition, ie: a ceramic based track pad to a ceramic based street pad. This will help to arrest any dissimilar material issues.