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Suspension upgrade or something else?

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Old 08-27-2012, 10:17 AM
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Thanks for all the input everyone. As davidnyc pointed out, track time is probably the best bang for the buck. I ride with an instructor every chance I can get,
but it's tough to silence the little voice in your head that wants to buy something new for the car to improve the "fun" factor!

Sounds like I certainly have a few relatively inexpensive options. One overwhelming theme of the post was about wheels. I'd be good to find some AP2 or even the Enkei's that I see on a lot of S2000's. This option will easily push to the top of the budget unless I can find some good used deals.

I like the alignment idea as well. I usually get the alignment set/checked once per year. Will need to look into what the max adjustments are to the stock components and will have to consider aftermarket if I need to go above and beyond. I've been running my current, slightly more agressive, set up for 2 years now so might be worth getting a little more agressive and determine if I can feel any difference.

A little less love for the sway bar/lowering spring options. This is my person favorite option because of the relatively easy install and low cost. However, I'm still not convinced that this option will provide any improved handling and reduce the understeer. As a few of you pointed out, it probably won't make it handle any worse and will notice some small improvement.
Old 08-27-2012, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by S2KSeeker
Call me cautions (maybe smart, but my wife would argue), but the vast majority of my modifications for the track have been with safety in mind. Fixed race seats, harddog roll barr with lowered harness bar, 6 pt harness, hans device, etc....

To give a little background, I have an 03 AP1 with 70K on the clock. Outside of upgraded braking compenents, UK alignment, and stock wheels with Dierzza Star specs, the car is stock.

I have about 20 track days under my belt and have noticed some limitations in my current setup for some time. My laps are always within 1 or 2 seconds of each other and feel that I am pushing the car as far as I am willing knowing I need to drive it home. (In my optinion, maybe 9/10ths to 9.5/10ths). Although I'm sure a professional driver in my car would make me realize I'm only at 7/10ths! This is a weekend fun car and the modifications I make are for track days in mind so not concerned about daily drivability.

I am comfortable with the current engine and braking setup, but feel the limitations are in cornering ability. Low speed understeer as well as what feels to be a fair amoutn of body roll/lean at both low and high speed are my main concerns. Would like the car to feel more composed/flat when cornering. I've read too many posts over the past 2 days and think I'm in information overload!

With a budget in mind, I'm not sure what options are avaiable. I have very little interest in purchasing a quality coil over setup simply because I dont' want to spend a significant amount of money. But, I am wondering if there are some less costly options that will enhance handling such as various sway bars, lowering springs (Eibach or Swift) w/ stock shocks etc. The answer I fear is that they only way to improve the stock handling is to buy a quality set of coil overs and that all other cheaper options will not improve lap times or improve handling. Would like to keep the cost to $1,000 or less. Wasn't sure if I should post in suspension forumn or here, but since I am specifically interested in implications for the track, I posted here. Thanks in advance for your input.
I agree with wheels and tires, but that's a bit over 1k combined. If you want afermarket, square RPF1 17x9 +45 will fit with some camber and a fender roll. Are you willing to irreversibly modify body panels? Alternatively, you can purchase 4 AP2 rears, and bore out the centers to fit the front.

My money would be on dialing in the alignment to your preferences. This can work wonders on the car. If you don't have camber modifiers, you'll probably need to get them in the front and rear to do this. Please keep in mind that if you just drive around town, tire wear will be heavily accelerated, but with only 70k miles on a MY03, that doesn't seem to be a large concern You'll likely see a minor reduction in lap times, but the car will handle the way you want it to.
Old 08-27-2012, 11:43 AM
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To give you an idea, I just got 4 17x9 +62 TR Motorsports C3 wheels from tirerack for $650. They don't look bad, they're not heavy, and I haven't rolled my fenders yet. It doesn't look like I'll need to, but I'm going to before my next track day just because it would suck to find out I need them rolled between sessions that I've already paid for.
Old 08-27-2012, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by odb812
To give you an idea, I just got 4 17x9 +62 TR Motorsports C3 wheels from tirerack for $650. They don't look bad, they're not heavy, and I haven't rolled my fenders yet. It doesn't look like I'll need to, but I'm going to before my next track day just because it would suck to find out I need them rolled between sessions that I've already paid for.
You won't need to unless you're lowered They will rub the arm at full lock though, if you're running track (~ -3) camber in the front.
Old 08-27-2012, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by psychoazn
Originally Posted by odb812' timestamp='1346096617' post='21968438
To give you an idea, I just got 4 17x9 +62 TR Motorsports C3 wheels from tirerack for $650. They don't look bad, they're not heavy, and I haven't rolled my fenders yet. It doesn't look like I'll need to, but I'm going to before my next track day just because it would suck to find out I need them rolled between sessions that I've already paid for.
You won't need to unless you're lowered They will rub the arm at full lock though, if you're running track (~ -3) camber in the front.
I don't have that great an understanding of the suspension geometry on these cars, but wouldn't more negative camber give you more clearance on the control arms? Since you are moving the top of the wheel in without changing the position of the spindle, the bottom half of the wheel should move out away from the control arm, right? I don't have camber joints so I'm -1.9 all around right now. After I put some miles on these wheels I'll see if there was any rubbing with that much camber. What offsets are your BBS?
Old 08-27-2012, 05:20 PM
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uk alignment is designed to stop crazy english people looping the car into hedges!
it has 0.40 total rear toe-in and makes the car pushy
try backing the toe down from around 0.20 total, max out the camber both ends
Old 08-27-2012, 05:33 PM
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I vote for CR dampers/springs, square setup, front rollbar from a CR and rear rollbar from a normal AP2.
Old 08-27-2012, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by odb812
Originally Posted by psychoazn' timestamp='1346098501' post='21968550
[quote name='odb812' timestamp='1346096617' post='21968438']
To give you an idea, I just got 4 17x9 +62 TR Motorsports C3 wheels from tirerack for $650. They don't look bad, they're not heavy, and I haven't rolled my fenders yet. It doesn't look like I'll need to, but I'm going to before my next track day just because it would suck to find out I need them rolled between sessions that I've already paid for.
You won't need to unless you're lowered They will rub the arm at full lock though, if you're running track (~ -3) camber in the front.
I don't have that great an understanding of the suspension geometry on these cars, but wouldn't more negative camber give you more clearance on the control arms? Since you are moving the top of the wheel in without changing the position of the spindle, the bottom half of the wheel should move out away from the control arm, right? I don't have camber joints so I'm -1.9 all around right now. After I put some miles on these wheels I'll see if there was any rubbing with that much camber. What offsets are your BBS?
[/quote]

You gain more clearance on the lower arm, but lose clearance on the upper arm. We're talking BARELY rubbing at FULL lock. Even a 2-3mm spacer will completely eliminate the problem, and if you're running so much camber that rubbing is an issue, then rubbing the outside won't be an issue.

My BBS are 17x8.5 +55. Not ideal for track use at all, but I think they're pretty
Old 08-27-2012, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by psychoazn
You gain more clearance on the lower arm, but lose clearance on the upper arm. We're talking BARELY rubbing at FULL lock. Even a 2-3mm spacer will completely eliminate the problem, and if you're running so much camber that rubbing is an issue, then rubbing the outside won't be an issue.

My BBS are 17x8.5 +55. Not ideal for track use at all, but I think they're pretty
Ah, I see. Coming from old Porsches, this notion of upper and lower arms is pretty new to me. As far as rubbing inside vs outside, I figure buy the highest offset I can and then I can always add a spacer if I don't clear the inside. Sticking out to far is a problem that's harder to solve. What would be your ideal offset for 17x9s on the front with a 255 and track alignment? Oh, and yes, the BBS are very pretty. Especially on that GPW.
Old 08-27-2012, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by odb812
Originally Posted by psychoazn' timestamp='1346117880' post='21969336

You gain more clearance on the lower arm, but lose clearance on the upper arm. We're talking BARELY rubbing at FULL lock. Even a 2-3mm spacer will completely eliminate the problem, and if you're running so much camber that rubbing is an issue, then rubbing the outside won't be an issue.

My BBS are 17x8.5 +55. Not ideal for track use at all, but I think they're pretty
Ah, I see. Coming from old Porsches, this notion of upper and lower arms is pretty new to me. As far as rubbing inside vs outside, I figure buy the highest offset I can and then I can always add a spacer if I don't clear the inside. Sticking out to far is a problem that's harder to solve. What would be your ideal offset for 17x9s on the front with a 255 and track alignment? Oh, and yes, the BBS are very pretty. Especially on that GPW.
If you're not opposed to modifying body panels, have you considered running 17x10? You can pick up a nice set in the group buy going on here:

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/965...8%85%E2%98%85/

It will require rolling/pulling the stock fenders and quarters, as well as track camber.


If you want to stay as unmodified as possible, but run 17x9 with track camber, then a set of 17x9 +6x with the appropriate spacer is best.


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