boyguan

I have owned my car for about 4 years now and over 20 track events. i have been finally able to push it to the point where i am able to handle the under steer to over steer at the track most of the time. i have held off on modding my car before i get the car control down in order to maximize the performance of each mod.

Current mods
volk te37 with staggered setup 225/255 dunlop star specs.
carbotech xp10/8
harddog double diaganol roll bar with lowered harness bar and partial interior removed to accomodate.
momo bucket set

engine and suspension is still stock.

i feel that i am unable to push the car anymore due to the fear of the rear coming out at higher speed sweepers. Low speed drift is fine and mid speed is still manageable.

I was thinking of either getting a wing or suspension budget is prefered around 1000 but can do more.

i was planning on getting some cheap coil overs like buddy clubs and to help eliminate the twictch of the rear.

Suggestions from the pros please. time at t-hill with bypass 2:17

robrob

This is my recommended sequence of upgrades (from my website):


Front sway bar to reduce body roll and increase stability

Track alignment to increase grip in corners

Coil over shocks for stability and lowered ride height

Racing seat(s) for safety and less sliding in the seat

Tow hooks to minimize towing damage

R-compound tires and lightweight 17 inch wheels for much more grip (non-staggered 255x4)

Adjustable ball joints up front for more negative camber for more cornering grip

Baffled oil pan to prevent oil starvation on long fast sweepers

Fire extinguisher

Cold air intake for a little more power but lots more sweet engine sound

Cat-back exhaust or cutoff to reduce weight and increase exhaust flow

Wing to reduce high speed lift and add stability in fast corners

Hard top to keep NASA happy, lose weight, and become more aerodynamic

Video camera and mount to review your performance and learn from your mistakes

Splitter to reduce high speed front end lift

Data acquisition to analyze your performance

Shift light to know when to shift when you can't hear your engine due to on track traffic

Don't forget more frequent differential, transmission and engine oil changes

Roll cage

ScandinavianFlick

Don't buy cheap coilovers. You're more likely to lose grip and stability than gain it.

I agree with everything Rob said; in your specific case I'd suggest getting a bigger front sway bar (eibach is stiff enough for big tracks on street tires) and upgraded dampers (Koni or similar). If you have the funds (which it sounds like you may not), there is no excuse not to shell out the $2400 for KW V3s; they will transform your car's stability and responsiveness, are warrantied, and have been proven to work by many of the fastest S2000 drivers.

bsyeth

If you want to go cheap, pick up a set of tein S tech springs and put on your factory dampeners or some ground controls.
Throw a bigger front sway bar on, that will keep the rear end behind you.
You can sell those thing later and not be out much.
From there...
Rob made you a list, and brands are debatable.
Do some research and going with type and brands that are used most by actual racers, to help you decide.

boyguan

i think front sway bar is the option to try.
how do you think it will handle with only 225 and now wing?

ZDan

You shouldn't need to buy anything or mod the car at all. Alignment, tires, and driving style is all, and you're already on great tires. How many heat cycles? If the rears are nearing end of life and you've tracked them a bunch, it could be that they've somewhat heat cycled out and aren't giving as much grip as the fronts?

What is your current alignment? For a stock S2k, I'd recommend max front and rear camber, zero front toe, and 0.2 to 0.3 degrees total rear toe-in. Too much rear toe kills tires and in my experience only makes the car handle more nonlinearly and twitchy, while also killing turn-in. One man's experience...

As for driving, this car more than just about any other modern car rewards being tentative on the throttle with instability. Commitment is required.

Absolutely no reason you should have to buy anything to make any year/model S2k in good working order handle fantastically and without constantly threatening to swap ends in high speed (or low or mid-speed) corners.

turbo8765

KW V3s can be had for far less than 2400.

Rob's list looks really good, but I'd move the race seat to the top of the list. In addition to not bruising my left knee, I have an infinitely better feel for what the car is doing. It's easy to underestimate the amount of brain power required to stabilize yourself at 1g of lateral acceleration in a stock leather seat with a 3 point seat belt.

Do you have an ap1 or ap2? I'm sure your familiar with the controversy over the benefits/necessity of a rear BSK, but I believe it's highly beneficial. I don't know what your alignment looks like, but given that you have a 30mm stagger some of the looseness in the rear may be related to dynamic toe changes.

boyguan

current alignment is max front camber at -1.9 degrees with 0 toe, rear is -2.0 with 1/32 toe in. handles great and does what i want. i just want to get alil faster speed if possible.

robrob

I would estimate there's about 6 to 7 seconds a lap difference between a bone stock S2000 and my race car on Summit Point Main with me driving both cars so you should be able to get "alil faster speed" with some mods.

1wides2k

It sounds to me like your ready for a suspension upgrade. The stock suspension is great, but with the increased range of an after market suspension system your entry, mid-corner, and exit wil be more stable in high, medium, and low speed corners. I don't recommend spending $1000 on suspension/coilovers though...you get what you pay for. Take some time, do some research on what best fits your driving habbits/style. You will probably end up with KW-V3s, I did.