Conedodger

That is my understanding. I don't want to ruin the car for the street, want to be competitive locally, and not embarrass myself at the occasional Tour.

iamxpl

@PilotSH tried pm'ing you but says you cant receive messages.

IntegraR0064

Nevermind! Just found out a certain guy who just dominated at Dixie in STR is on DFVs with off the shelf valving. Clearly you can kick ass with DFVs.

Conedodger

Nevermind! Just found out a certain guy who just dominated at Dixie in STR is on DFVs with off the shelf valving. Clearly you can kick ass with DFVs.
[/quote]
Dang! Now I won't have any excuses.

iamxpl

haha ^^ yeah no excuses now.

imstimpy

Over the weekend I drove a local event that left me scratching my head. There were three sweepers that were all reasonably quick. Corner entry was at the limiter in 2nd and corner-exit at about 5k in 2nd. I found it somewhat difficult to put down the power exiting the sweepers. Temps and pressures confirmed that the car was heating the rears faster than the front.

My suspension setup hasn't changed in forever but I did install a header and tune the car back in November. Prior to that I was driving an STU STi so I can't precisely recall if the oversteer is new or was always there. The car will happily spin tires in 2nd on the street, which I also don't remember, so I'm leaning towards a setup change. I'm not sure what, though.

* On average, would you say your setup allows you to stand on the gas while exiting higher speed corners or does it require some throttle finesse?
* Without driving hamfisted, has anybody noticed the rears heating faster than the fronts? My car heats fronts faster than rears on slower courses, but I don't have enough recent experience on faster courses in the S2000.
* Any recent thoughts on softer more compliant setups versus stiffer and theoretically faster setups?

Car: 2006 S2000 AP2
Ride height: 13.0"f/12.9"r hub center to metal fender edge
Shocks: Moton Clubsports
Springs: 900f/650r
Front Bar: Gendron bearing 1.375"x0.25" @4
Rear Bar: Gendron bearing 1.0"x0.95" @3
Alignment: -2.6f, -2.4r camber, 0" toe front, 1/4" rear toe
Tires: 255 square BFG Rivals @36psi or 255 square Dunlop ZIIs @36psi
Differential: off-the-shelf OS Giken

ConeKiller2

Too much front/rear bar for those springs imho. Most guys are running the hollow gendron bar at middle stiffness and no rear bar/miata rear bear which is softer all around. The problem is with that much bar/spring the car will be too stiff and you cant make the tires work. FWIW on our bsp car we run 1000/800 with gendron hollow on middle stiff and miata bar on the rear. 3.4 degrees front camber and 2 degrees rear with slight toe out front, 1/4 in in the back

Sacha
BSP 86

imstimpy

Too much front bar is causing corner exit oversteer? I'm not sure I follow. At low speeds, sure, it understeers a bit and is easy to overload the front tires. At high speed though not so much. In fact, every single time I've added more front bar the car is faster and more stable through sweepers at the sacrifice of low-speed understeer. Maybe too much front roll rate for the rear camber I'm running? I recall Glagola having sweeper exit oversteer with his crazy stiff setup.

Those guys running hollow Gendron front bars and no rear bar/miata bar are all softer, but significantly more front roll rate biased. That hints to me that I could go more front biased by stiffening the front or softening the rear. Your setup, however, is more rear biased but yet you run very little rear camber in relation to the front.

My Gendron rear bar has a roll rate of 216lbs/in compared to the Miata base 124lbs/in or the stock CR 348lbs/in. I've seen people run higher and lower rear springs with any of those bars. One nationally competitive car accomplished the same rear roll rate as I have with 550lb springs and a stock CR rear bar; that same competitor ran the Gendron 1.25" hollow bar@6 with a stock rear CR bar and 900#f/650# rear springs for nationals two years ago (more camber though). Another ran the Gendron 1.375"@3 front bar, no rear bar, 700#f/550#r springs at nationals two years ago. Another ran 700# rear springs and a stock AP1 rear bar. All of these people I respect and have demonstrated success with those setups. People aren't contributing to the community as much lately so I have no idea where people are at now.

josh7owens

On my CR I'm currently

Springs 900f/600r
1.25 solid bar on 4-5/6
Gendron rear bar .095 bar at 3/5
Alignment is -2.7 all the way around, 0 front toe and -.07 each side toe in. I think that's a 1/16th.

Z2 tires

I may go to a 800 front spring if it ends up pushy but felt good last weekend. I agree with the low speed push on entry but the bar helps settle the car in transitions and corner exit.

I wish people would be more open and share info like they used to. It helps keep the S2000 alive.

iamxpl

i just recently switched to a Koni DA set up.

Springs 800f and 650r
Gendron Hollow 1.25 front bar at 5/6
No rear bar
alignment is unknown since this set up raised the car by about .25 inch all the way around. ill know more when i go for a corner balance.


Previous set up was

HKS hipermax 3

13kg F (725 lbs?) 11kg R (625lbs?)
Gendron Hollow 1.25 5/6
06 ap2 rear bar
-3.4 camber, 0 toe max caster front, -2.7 camber, 1/16th total toe
ride height was 12.75" front and 13" rear center hub to fender edge. IIRC

Tires are Z1 star specs worn.

on the previous set up, i got to take it out last weekend and the car felt great but it was twitchy on exit. so i was recommended to add a little more toe and maybe remove the rear bar. i know i should have smaller changes instead of changing everything at once but it was a deal i couldnt pass up on the shocks. i am also new to the STR world and autocross. this is my second season.