So I had my first track day with my s at SOW. Stock suspension with J's S2 camber joint. I had front: 6.5 caster, -3.45 camber, 0 toe; rear: -2.5 camber, 0.18 total toe. Needed more neg camber in the back. My tire pressure gauge broke so thats a veriable that could have effected handeling and wear. I just set my tires to 30 PSI cold. I went to the tire shop today flipped my tires and got alignment again. Fr: 6.8 caster, -3.45 camber, 0 toe; Rear: -2.65camber, 0.12 total toe. I will follow up with wear and tire temps after my next track day (may 27 ROVAL).

Psychoazn: Tires fit great, no rub, no issues, no fender roll.

 

I would recommend you stick with the stock toe, 0 front and 0.4 inch total in the rear. I tried .2 total in the rear and it sucked--made the car too unstable at turn-in. 1/8 inch (0.125") total is just not enough.

 

I ran 0 on the front and 0 on the rear on some tracks and run 1/8" total on the rear on some tracks. The car I am speaking of is the N1 Racing time attack S200 that won the championship last year.

 

BTW, a roll center is a great way to lower your car while still running stock suspension. Because it adjust the height on the ball joint, the lowering effect is almost 1:1 ratio. If the roll center 20mm thick, the car will be lowered almost 20mm.

Of course, you should re-check and re-adjust bumpsteer as this will alter the bumpsteer curve significantly.

BTW, I have a bumpsteer gauge that almost new for sale. I'm now using plates, so I don't need them anymore.

 

I dont yet have enough understanding of rollcenter to start adjusting it. Also I dont have much seat time. Right now I want a car thats close to stock but maximizes the tires so I can work on becoming a faster driver instead of a driver with a faster car. Regarding the toe settings, did you run an 1/8" on faster tracks (long straight aways) and 0 on the tighter tracks?

JJ

 

Kind of. I ran toe in in the rear on track with fast corners. Ran zero on tighter tracks.

 

This theory is in respect to the front plate on the L1 kit correct? So for the rear, how much lower does the car sit - the additional distance added by the RCA to the mounting point on the arm?

EDIT: Found that there are 2 version for the rear, one of which is 20mm - this answers my question.

 

It seems the AP1 needs more rear toe in than the AP2. Also the age/condition of your rear bushings will make a difference on how much toe in you need. The softer the bushings get the more braking toe out you'll get. I'm running my original 2001 bushings and my car (with it's particular suspension and my driving style) benefits form the stock 0.4 inch of rear toe in. I won a NASA TT championship with the stock toe settings.

Again, I highly recommend you stick with the stock setting until you get good enough to know you need to change it.