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stock suspension with camber adjusters

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Old 04-11-2011 | 02:23 PM
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JJ7
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Default stock suspension with camber adjusters

I have an ap2 that is all stock. I just ordered some RS3s (235f,255r) and understand they like ~-3deg+ of camber. My current plan is to get J's L2 front roll center adjuster and just max the rear with the stock adjustments. I have not seen anyone with stock ride height using aftermarket camber adjusters and was looking for input from other peoples experiences. I would like to have -3.3 all around but understand with stock rear I can only get high 2s.

Thanks
JJ
Old 04-11-2011 | 02:28 PM
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I'm using the S2. Unless you're planning on eventually lowering the car, stick to S1 or S2 and save yourself some cash.

Rears will hit high 2's unless you take out toe.

I'm at stock height on a CR, which sits slightly higher than a non-CR.

If you have a good amount of track experience, I would actually recommend you go even higher. The only *proper* way to determine camber is via pyrometer, but based on wear, I'd go -3.3 and possibly -3.5.
Old 04-11-2011 | 02:49 PM
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So the only difference between l2 and s2 is the spacer? With the s2 were you able to get more than -3 neg cam on your stock cr suspension? By the way I havnt forgot, I'll let you know as soon as the tires are mounted if there is any rubbing or fitment issues. Thanks!
Old 04-11-2011 | 03:04 PM
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Yes, the spacer is the only difference.

Yes, I can get more than -3 with the S2; theoretically I should be able to get up to about -4.8, but I haven't tried to max out the range since I'll never actually get there...
Old 04-11-2011 | 05:45 PM
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I agree, I use the S2 up front and the SPC ball joint in the rear. My fronts maxed out at -3.2 and the min in the rear is -3.3 all on stock ride height.
Old 04-11-2011 | 08:06 PM
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JJ,

S1 & S2 add camber only, no roll center. S1 adds ~ 3 degrees, S2 ~ 5.

L1 & L2 add camber (same as L series), and a 12mm roll center shim, which you don't want. The L series cost another $130 ($500 msrp)

For stock ride height, I would use the S2 since camber and castor are mutually exclusive, and you want plenty of both. With S1 you will be able to get close to 3 degrees camber, but you wont be able to get too much castor, likely less than 6 degrees. With the S2, you can get most of your camber from the camber joint, and use the stock cam bolts to maximize the castor.

SPC is an entire different product that is pressed into the upper control arm. I don't like the design and wouldn't use it on any of my cars. They have mixed reviews here on S2ki, but many ppl (track included) have used them to success.

Hope that helps, was a bit much to type via text.

-Dino
Old 04-12-2011 | 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Antonov
S1 & S2 add camber only, no roll center. S1 adds ~ 3 degrees, S2 ~ 5.
The S2 joint only added about 2.2 degrees for me. At stock ride height, my chassis maxed out at -3.8 degrees in the front.
Old 04-12-2011 | 02:55 PM
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Thank you everybody for your input. I will try to order the s2 today. I will update this thread with my alignment specs and how well it worked for me after a track day.

JJ
Old 04-12-2011 | 03:31 PM
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Hey JJ,

I just posted on this thread: J's Racing vs SPC about another option we have for getting J's camber joints at SPC prices. I don't really think S2/L2s are necessary IMO. The stock car will get almost 2.0, and the S1/L1/Hardrace joints will add another 2 degrees, so you're looking at high 3s-low 4s on camber. YMMV.
Old 04-12-2011 | 07:04 PM
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One thing people don't mention, is that you lose caster when you get to the extreme edges of adding camber. The S2/L2 will let you add the caster AND get the camber.


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