Guys,

I am welding in a new oil pan baffle and want to avoid the failures a few of us have seen by simply welding the baffle to the oil pan directly.

I am going to create rails and weld those to the pan, and also drill and tap the rails and pan. I will use washers with high temp rubber grommets, high temp LocTite, etc... to ensure a seal that won't like at higher pressure/temperature. I need to know the type of L-Bar to buy (ie. 6103 Aluminum, etc...)

Does anyone know the type of aluminum used by Honda on the stock oil pan baffle?

I want to make sure the metallurgy of the weld is correct so that there's no cracking between the pan and the rails.

Thanks!

Jorge

 

No one will know for sure... but it is definitely not a 6XXX series aluminum. Since it is a cast aluminum, it is more than likely a pot metal... like a 356 or 380 series.

 

Thanks for the tip. Do I have to get the metallurgy match exactly right for the welds to hold perfectly?

Also, has anyone doing baffles had them brazed during the process to strengthen the contact?

Are these questions too dorky?

 

I've had my J's baffled pan on my car for over a year and there is not any deterioration or cracks in the welds. The only thing I noticed is that it was slightly rubbing on the oil pump so I had to file that part down a little bit.

Has there been a lot of failures in the welds of baffled pans? What is the cause of the failures that you have seen?


-Rob

 

Pieces break off and block the oil return = Kaboom!

 

IIRC That was the trap door pan that had that issue. I have not seen any of the others (JDM) fail.

 

There was a Mugen or awhile ago too, IIRC. I can't find it now though.

If memory serves, the screws backed out and chaos ensued.

 

Yep. The TCDesign pans have eaten at least a couple of motors.

 

That looks like a terrible design.

 

What gave it away - several blown motors?