Spring rate stagger
#11
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Raz, that's what I find puzzling. The tyres were shot at Croft (too many cycles and wear blocks deforming) but even so my car does behave oddly compared to others. Pressures are spot on which is evident from the wear and chalk marks we put on.
So what coilover brand do you have now, or have you just changed the springs on the Nitrons?
I'm fairly sure I will just drop the rear down to 12kg, i'd prefer it even as the rear does have to withstand some downforce.
On a plus point, the tyre regs for next year have changed so I can run Dunlop semi slicks (muhc better tyre with many compound options)
So what coilover brand do you have now, or have you just changed the springs on the Nitrons?
I'm fairly sure I will just drop the rear down to 12kg, i'd prefer it even as the rear does have to withstand some downforce.
On a plus point, the tyre regs for next year have changed so I can run Dunlop semi slicks (muhc better tyre with many compound options)
#12
Member
Thread Starter
How much rear toe-in are you running?
Most people in US on this side seem to run even rates with a big front bar or stock bars and a slight front bias (50/100lbs).
But thats usualy with the same size tires front/rear and a functional wing.
Seems like springrates around 600-700lbs are popular I think thats about 12kg, 14kg rear sounds like too much.
I'd say you should go even on the springs at 12kg but it'd be easy to just swap the front and rear.
Most people in US on this side seem to run even rates with a big front bar or stock bars and a slight front bias (50/100lbs).
But thats usualy with the same size tires front/rear and a functional wing.
Seems like springrates around 600-700lbs are popular I think thats about 12kg, 14kg rear sounds like too much.
I'd say you should go even on the springs at 12kg but it'd be easy to just swap the front and rear.
Agree on the 12kg rear.
#13
Member
Thread Starter
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 524
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm in the same boat. Deciding whether to buy new rear springs and drop the rear spring rate to 12kg/mm or swap the rear springs to the front (I'm also 12/14).
My setup was good previously (running 255 square, Eibach FSB, roughly -3 camber all around with 2mm toe in rear, rear toe arms and GT wing). But since I've added a 1.5 way metal clutch type LSD and it's become a bit nervous on corner entry and basically accelerating in general.... even costing me time (roughly .5 of a second... that said, my lap times are much more consistent with the LSD).
In the video below, there's a left hand sweeper that I used to be able to accelerate through... now I'm modulating the throttle a lot more.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLDFJbsXXHs[/media]
Later in the video, the tyres (Z1SS) start overheating and becomes a lot more tail happy ahha...
My setup was good previously (running 255 square, Eibach FSB, roughly -3 camber all around with 2mm toe in rear, rear toe arms and GT wing). But since I've added a 1.5 way metal clutch type LSD and it's become a bit nervous on corner entry and basically accelerating in general.... even costing me time (roughly .5 of a second... that said, my lap times are much more consistent with the LSD).
In the video below, there's a left hand sweeper that I used to be able to accelerate through... now I'm modulating the throttle a lot more.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLDFJbsXXHs[/media]
Later in the video, the tyres (Z1SS) start overheating and becomes a lot more tail happy ahha...
#15
Originally Posted by LickyMYwalker' timestamp='1352332230' post='22136768
im wondering if you have a clutch type diff? for your alignment, is front toe that .05 degrees out and .1 degrees each side in? i dont see any units so i had to ask
in the video where you were making the tight turn at 7.30, it seems like that tight right turn has a small dip in it for which the left rear tire would catch and unweight itself causing toe out on that side. if im completely wrong about that turn, then forget what i just said
in the second video chasing the ep3 at 13.55, did he brake check you? if so caused you to lift off the gas and lose weight over the rear?
im just trying to examine the driving and scenarios which could have caused the sudden breakouts in the rear end. even at my setup with 255s street tires, DA dampers, and a wing, my car doesn't exhibit this type of behavior.
if you want to change setup though this is what i would do:
1.) i would try run no rear bar seeing as you already have 14kg spring in the rear. thats the cheapest way to go ,since its free!, to see if you really would like a softer rear end but you will understeer more on longer steady state corners. if you did like the feel then try swapping springs and put the roll bar back on, then test it with it off again and see.
2.) if you want to change alignment, i would go 0 toe front, keep your camber in the front, but change the rear camber to -2.8 but without any hard data from a pyrometer this is just a guess.
just my opinion though
#17
Thanks Raz, that's what I find puzzling. The tyres were shot at Croft (too many cycles and wear blocks deforming) but even so my car does behave oddly compared to others. Pressures are spot on which is evident from the wear and chalk marks we put on.
So what coilover brand do you have now, or have you just changed the springs on the Nitrons?
I'm fairly sure I will just drop the rear down to 12kg, i'd prefer it even as the rear does have to withstand some downforce.
On a plus point, the tyre regs for next year have changed so I can run Dunlop semi slicks (muhc better tyre with many compound options)
So what coilover brand do you have now, or have you just changed the springs on the Nitrons?
I'm fairly sure I will just drop the rear down to 12kg, i'd prefer it even as the rear does have to withstand some downforce.
On a plus point, the tyre regs for next year have changed so I can run Dunlop semi slicks (muhc better tyre with many compound options)
It is good news about the tyre options next year.
I've got Nitron r3s , their 3 way race shocker with remote canisters. Apparently they were valve matched to the spring rates at 12/14. (eibach springs)
#18
Honda does higher spring rate in the rear from the factory on all S2000s but the CR I believe. Most JDM tuners seem to run equal rates F & R or a slight stagger towards the rear. The alignment is the key factor in the equation though.
It is all a compromise really for one thing or the other, and you as a driver have to figure out what compromises you want to make. I would prefer to be able to have control of the rear and the ability to make it come out under power, not so much that you lose time, but keeping the driver in control of rear traction, not the car. It really just comes down to driver preference really.
It is all a compromise really for one thing or the other, and you as a driver have to figure out what compromises you want to make. I would prefer to be able to have control of the rear and the ability to make it come out under power, not so much that you lose time, but keeping the driver in control of rear traction, not the car. It really just comes down to driver preference really.
#19
#20
Originally Posted by GT Motoring II' timestamp='1352402319' post='22138743
Interesting how most of the people here in the states run more front than rear and those in the UK/Australia/etc are running more rear spring than front.
Ride height settings which followed closely to what the coil over manufacturer gave to me seemed to work with that though