SPC Camber Joint vs J's Racing S1
#111
Originally Posted by TubeDriver' timestamp='1309286383' post='20727921
[quote name='dc_s2k' timestamp='1309022088' post='20718785']
Got my car aligned with the J's S1 (blue) ball joints. The shop could only get -2.7 degrees of negative camber. Car is lowered 3/4"
I was looking for -3.5. Hopefully the -2.7 will work for me. If not, I'll be selling a very low mileage set of S1s on s2ki.
Got my car aligned with the J's S1 (blue) ball joints. The shop could only get -2.7 degrees of negative camber. Car is lowered 3/4"
I was looking for -3.5. Hopefully the -2.7 will work for me. If not, I'll be selling a very low mileage set of S1s on s2ki.
I bet you have a LOT of castor? Have them dial a couple degrees off the castor ans you will more -cam.
[/quote]
hm weird, i have -3 and im about your height...
#112
#113
Former Moderator
I copied the following post to this thread since it kind of sums up my feelings on front end camber adjustment:
I melted the rubber boots off my first set of SPC ball joints so I replaced them after I put the brake dust shields back on to mount the brake vent hoses. I had to press the right front ball joint in and out several times to get the slot angle just right. When I went to torque the big top nut the whole ball joint turned in the upper a-arm hole. All of the in-and-out ( ) must have opened up the hole. I put the ball joint back into the right position and spot welded the ball joint to the a-arm. That was about 3 years ago and I haven't had any issues with it. If the upper ball joints need to be replaced I'll just go with new factory upper a-arms and add camber adjusters to the lower a-arm.
Even though I have been running SPC adjustable upper ball joints for 5 years I would have to recommend going with one of the lower a-arm camber adjusters like the Hard Race or J's over the SPC ball joints. Several people have had issues like stripping the big top nut, movement in the slot, and spinning in the mounting hole.
I melted the rubber boots off my first set of SPC ball joints so I replaced them after I put the brake dust shields back on to mount the brake vent hoses. I had to press the right front ball joint in and out several times to get the slot angle just right. When I went to torque the big top nut the whole ball joint turned in the upper a-arm hole. All of the in-and-out ( ) must have opened up the hole. I put the ball joint back into the right position and spot welded the ball joint to the a-arm. That was about 3 years ago and I haven't had any issues with it. If the upper ball joints need to be replaced I'll just go with new factory upper a-arms and add camber adjusters to the lower a-arm.
Even though I have been running SPC adjustable upper ball joints for 5 years I would have to recommend going with one of the lower a-arm camber adjusters like the Hard Race or J's over the SPC ball joints. Several people have had issues like stripping the big top nut, movement in the slot, and spinning in the mounting hole.
#115
Folks, if you are looking for more than -3 degrees of camber and are purchasing the J's racing offset ball joints, buy the red ones (S2) not the blue ones (S1). I maxed out at -2.9 with the S1. Both are very well made and in my opinion much more sturdy than the SPC product.
Others claim to get more than -3 with the blue ones, but that was not my experience on an straight (not wrecked) and lowered car.
Others claim to get more than -3 with the blue ones, but that was not my experience on an straight (not wrecked) and lowered car.
#116
^Maybe you weren't low enough?
My old s2000 had J's L1 joints which should provide the same extra camber but also be a roll center adjuster and at my ride height (About a finger gap between tire and fender) I had almost -4 just slapping them on. We had room to get more too.
My old s2000 had J's L1 joints which should provide the same extra camber but also be a roll center adjuster and at my ride height (About a finger gap between tire and fender) I had almost -4 just slapping them on. We had room to get more too.
#117
Folks, if you are looking for more than -3 degrees of camber and are purchasing the J's racing offset ball joints, buy the red ones (S2) not the blue ones (S1). I maxed out at -2.9 with the S1. Both are very well made and in my opinion much more sturdy than the SPC product.
Others claim to get more than -3 with the blue ones, but that was not my experience on an straight (not wrecked) and lowered car.
Others claim to get more than -3 with the blue ones, but that was not my experience on an straight (not wrecked) and lowered car.
#118
^That's correct. I just installed the S2 camber joints and they are indeed blue. I just got aligned by Darin at West End, and I believe the front camber was definitely over -3* when I installed them, but he brought it down to -3.0*.
Contact Yasu at http://www.j-sracingusa.com/ if you need the S2s. He can get them from Japan in about 1 week. I couldn't find anyone else who had them in stock.
Contact Yasu at http://www.j-sracingusa.com/ if you need the S2s. He can get them from Japan in about 1 week. I couldn't find anyone else who had them in stock.
#120
Originally Posted by dc_s2k' timestamp='1328630950' post='21391725
Folks, if you are looking for more than -3 degrees of camber and are purchasing the J's racing offset ball joints, buy the red ones (S2) not the blue ones (S1). I maxed out at -2.9 with the S1. Both are very well made and in my opinion much more sturdy than the SPC product.
Others claim to get more than -3 with the blue ones, but that was not my experience on an straight (not wrecked) and lowered car.
Others claim to get more than -3 with the blue ones, but that was not my experience on an straight (not wrecked) and lowered car.
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