modMonkey

I'm looking for about 3 degrees of camber up front. From what I've read, it seems like these are the two most popular choices for increasing camber (save for an extremely low ride height and aftermarket a-arms). Given the significant price difference between the two, is there any advantage to the J's Racing product? I've heard from one individual that the SPC has a tendancy to move out of spec, though I haven't found any posts to support this.

Also, those using the J's Racing S1, there is no need to get the L1 (S1+RCA) unless I'm going lower than 40mm from stock, correct?

Sorry, I plan on lowering the car by 1." I still need to figure out what determines an optimal ride height. Right now I'm just gauging by what allows the jack to fit under the front jack point without ramps.

krysdafur

For initial purchase, there is not really much difference in price unless you already have a ball joint press.
There seems to be less that can go wrong with the J's piece but replacement units will cost you more.

J's = $330
doesn't need a press

SPC = $200 ($100 each)
+ ball joint press
SPC press = $122
or
HF press = $60 (this may or may not be compatible)

Blue Gumby

you may not get 3 degrees with S1 with stock suspension/height. I got -2.7 max on driver side, granted that's with CR suspension on an 07 that raised the front like 3/8th inch. S2 cost the same and yield even more camber. I would have gone that way if I knew in advance.

modMonkey

Blue Gumby: Forgot to mention, I plan on lowering the car by 1" (I still need to figure out what determines an optimal ride height)

krysdafur: Planning to borrow a press and ball joint removal tool. While I've read the SPC install is pretty straight forward, the ease of install for the J's piece does have me tempted. Also running a 17" wheel so I shouldn't have any clearance issues.

psychoazn

The J's pushes the bottom of the wheel out, whereas the SPC pulls the top of the wheel in.

This may or may not matter for wheel/tire fitment purposes. As you run a wider tire, you'll discover which side (inner or outer) your wheel you'll rub on, and you may wish you had gotten one or the other.

Orthonormal

But remember that there's no such thing as a positive offset spacer...

Blue Gumby

if you gonna get the s1 lower ball joint, here's a quick technique to remove the lower ball joint. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZ-M--2uGE4. In the video, the guy used what looks like a ratchet or open end wrench to wedge it. FYI,I used a Craftsman 3/8" drive 9mm deep socket instead. Didn't even have to kick the rotor, just popped out when I lowered the jack.

GoTuningUnlimited

Also keep in mind that the SBC joint moves the upper mounting point in to increase camber while the J's joint moves the bottom joint out. The SBC will reduce wheel clearance to the suspension arms where the J's will increase. We've had problems with 17x9+63 front wheels hitting the suspension arm after installing the SBC joints. The J's joint is also a fixed piece that simply shifts the adjustment range so it will not overall adjustment range but will also never move out of place where the SBC may slide and change positions. The S1 will allow shift your camber range to 2-5 degrees where the S2 will be 3-6 degrees so we recommend the S1 if your looking for 3 degrees on a lowered car.

modMonkey

I don't see myself moving beyond a 255 tire. The wheel of choice will most likely be a 17x9 +40. I'm assuming that you (psychoazn) are alluding to what Tommy (or Aaron?) is stating. Looks like I'll be going with the J's S1.

Is the RCA sold separately, in case I decide to go beyond 40mm in the future?

Thanks for the video Gumby, I'm sure that will be useful.

misterwaterfallin

I have the SPC set and was heappy with the instal process and can't complain about them so far. They were much cheaper (I bought them for $160ish shipped off of ebay) and did the trick on the alignment rack.