Shocks for stock class s2000
#3
Registered User
To expand on gernby's suggestions:
Your first upgrade should be a big front sway bar, especially since your stated goal is eliminating body roll. Don't think about shocks until you've got a Gendron, Comptech, or similar bar on the car.
Also, note that consensus is that Konis are softer than the stock shocks. Consensus is also that Konis are slightly better than the stock shocks and thus a worthwhile upgrade, but if your goal truly is eliminating body roll, then they might not be what you're looking for.
If you rule out Konis, the remaining shock options (Penskes, Motons, JRZs, etc.) get pretty pricey, unfortunately.
Steve
Your first upgrade should be a big front sway bar, especially since your stated goal is eliminating body roll. Don't think about shocks until you've got a Gendron, Comptech, or similar bar on the car.
Also, note that consensus is that Konis are softer than the stock shocks. Consensus is also that Konis are slightly better than the stock shocks and thus a worthwhile upgrade, but if your goal truly is eliminating body roll, then they might not be what you're looking for.
If you rule out Konis, the remaining shock options (Penskes, Motons, JRZs, etc.) get pretty pricey, unfortunately.
Steve
#5
Registered User
From what I can tell, stay with stock shocks until you're truly ready for an upgrade and then spend the big bucks. The difference is said to be dramatic in transitions but you'll have to get the expensive ones to make a real difference. You got a choice - $ or $$$$
Trending Topics
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: San Diego
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by payneinthe
Those are both illegal for stock class SCCA autocrossing.
Those are both illegal for stock class SCCA autocrossing.
As for affecting roll, you should try them sometime. The body flex can definitely have an effect on percieved "roll" of the car which is what most people mistake for actual roll. Again, it all depends on how long you've been racing.
#10
One "mid-price" shock option is to get the Konis and pay an aditional $150 to $200 per shock to have it re-valved and converted to double adjustable. This way, you can adjust the Koni to be softer or firmer than stock and you can adjust both compression and rebound. Your total cost per shock will come out to around $400 with shipping. If you can find some used Konis you can have them converted, save some money on the purchase price and have completely rebuilt shocks that should operate like new.
I think the Penskes and Motons cost even more money.
I think the Penskes and Motons cost even more money.