spaded.racer

Nah, I don't have it the other way around. I'm posting my experience.
I've never had to touch the front fenders on ether my AP1(SPC adjustable upper ball joints) or AP2(Origin offset upper a-arm bushings)..

255 Rivals on a 17x9 +60 looked close in the rear so I rolled. No big deal, just rather be safe.
Buddy who bought the +55 9URLs rubbed badly in the rear and required a roll.

Maybe you guys run some crazy rear camber by you.

tom9933

So I was planning to have a local subbie buddy help with fender rolling after everything is installed, he has done a bunch of them I'm not worried about being nationally competitive in this car (DM is another story ) I just want something that's fun to drive with a little more than stock, but without loosing the feeling of the car. I am also planning on Hardrace front bushings, the only question left is the suspension (Ohlins DFV, DFV + rear cups, Long Stroke or TTX) and ride height (normal logic seems to be in the 13-13.5 range, but in this thread everyone is talking about 12.5-12.75).... Because I'd still like to be able to drive the car on the street I'm thinking something in the 13-13.5 range makes sense but I also want to only roll the fenders and buy the suspension once... The TTX feels like total overkill and I've seen where having too much adjustment causes more problems than it fixes. I don't I also keep going back and forth on how to coat/wrap my headers for heat (DEI Titanium wrap vs Jet Hot vs Swain).... Swain seems like the best option, but then I read horror stories about it not holding up.

spaded.racer

Sounds like you have a plan;
13" ride height is good/fine and streetable.
Don't overthink suspension. Go with the Sakebomb DFV + low rear cups, or give Karcepts a call.
I've done Jet Hot on my last 2 headers. Works well and seems to hold up just fine.

massiah86

Not saying the S is faster, I'm saying if the driver is good enough it will get into the trophies. It's still totally possible. I'm not saying it will win, more than likely not but if Tomo got in one I would not bet against him.

I won the Crow's Pro in my '04 this year and it isn't even close to pointy end, against two great national level drivers in the ND. Tours/Pros can be done and I would put money on it.

Nobody is signed up in the S for Nats because, unless you're Tomo, it would likely only trophy and everyone knows it.

engifineer

Every single S2k I know running a square setup has the fronts rolled and not the rears. With a drop, that is what you will have to do. I have no aftermarket camber adjustment. I run -2.6 all the way around. I am dropped about an inch (pretty typical for STR). My rears have tons of room and have never been rolled The fronts have actually rubbed the fenders barely once on a hard bump in a turn and they are rollled for sure. Not pulled, but rolled. There is absolutely more room in the rears than the fronts and running a sqaure setup with what I have would in no way work without the fenders rolled, which is why the last owner HAD to roll them when we ran his STR setup. I know 5 people set up like me and all 5 had to roll the fronts and not the rears. I could run even more tire in the rear (Although not legal for STR so I dont) and not roll fenders.

My buddy running the 959 racing wheels (They are 6URL by the way) has not touched his rear fenders but the fronts are rolled and are still close to rubbing.

Now by "rolling" most times in the front is mostly just folding up the tabs. A lot still roll them to be safe. Tabs are pretty much a thing you absolutely do, as once it DOES contact once you mess up your fenders.

Fokker

Running 17x9 +60 with 255, SPC uppers, and -3.5 camber front, I've still managed to get a hold of tabs. It can happen and I would suggest anyone running a square setup roll the front tabs.

engifineer

Having less camber than you I have gotten into the fenders themselves the one time. Made a very slight warpage but lucky it did not actually grab and tear the fender lip! I have seen numerous S2ks parked places with torn front fender lips and knew exactly what happened When mine contacted the fender it was in a more extreme circumstance where I had gone off course (off course at that site was dirt) and hit a big hole with the front wheel and likely bottomed out the suspension. But had I not had them rolled I for sure would have destroyed that fender.

tom9933

Thanks yes I went with this plan, I went with the Urge DFV setup (no cups yet) due to better communication. I'm also going with Karcepts bars, the Urge front and rear rotor setup along with project Mu pads.
The intake is already here, the 949 wheels, tires and URGE header, mid pipe and dual exhaust should be here tomorrow

I'm also thinking about the hardrace front offset bushings, drive shaft spacers, bump steer kit and a strut bar if it will fit with my intake... It looks like the AEM might fit

spaded.racer

I don't know what to tell you. I've had the opposite experience. Maybe you guys need more front spring?


I didn't know hardrace made offset bushings, they make good stuff so they should be GTG.
the shaft spacers are not necessary, save your money.
and I'm not sure the bump steer kit is STR legal? not sure the AEM is legal either if it requires cutting.

Fokker

Bumpsteer kits are not STR legal and the AEM v2 (long tube) intake isn't legal either since you will need to cut the under tray plastic to fit it. You can run it if you want as I doubt anyone would care locally, but someone will call it at national events, especially if you're winning against ND Miatas (not that either of those items would give you any significant edge).

I have 700 lb/in fronts with Penske 8300 DA. It can definitely be done in a spin and my wheel managed to grab one of the front most tabs that hadn't been rolled while driving on the street (I've since rectified that).