Saner, Comptech, or gendron....
#11
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I had a Saner and it was a piece of crap, made my 04 sound like a bucket of nails. Had to be tightened every week. And Mr Saner is impossible to reach. I now have a comptech and is worth every penny. You get what you pay for.
Ken
Ken
#12
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I don't know what level of competition you're looking for, but I've heard the saner isn't stiff enough for the latest tires on concrete with the AP1.
Many people have tried to compare sway bar stiffness using the simple formula that allows you to calculate the stiffness of the straight section of the bar. I wondered if that was really accurate and decided to model a couple of sway bars in unigraphics and use the FEA tool to determine stiffness and deflection. I found that the ends of the bar (the parts at right angles to the straight part) bend enough to make a big difference. This is why the Gendron is quite a bit stiffer than the Saner even though they use the same 1.25" diameter... the Gendron uses blade-type arms that don't flex, which makes it stiffer.
I wish I could model up the Comptech bar in Unigraphics, but I don't have the dimensional info.
Here's my model for the stock AP1 bar, 28.2mm OD, 5mm wall.
Many people have tried to compare sway bar stiffness using the simple formula that allows you to calculate the stiffness of the straight section of the bar. I wondered if that was really accurate and decided to model a couple of sway bars in unigraphics and use the FEA tool to determine stiffness and deflection. I found that the ends of the bar (the parts at right angles to the straight part) bend enough to make a big difference. This is why the Gendron is quite a bit stiffer than the Saner even though they use the same 1.25" diameter... the Gendron uses blade-type arms that don't flex, which makes it stiffer.
I wish I could model up the Comptech bar in Unigraphics, but I don't have the dimensional info.
Here's my model for the stock AP1 bar, 28.2mm OD, 5mm wall.
#13
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If you know someone with a machine shop, and will do the work cheap, you can make a Saner bar work great. And as far as the noise, at the same time as machining down the ends of the bar, you install McMaster Carr endlinks, as they are a lot more robust than the endlinks provided by Mr. Saner. You can also install grease zircs to lube the bushings without having to take them apart. After all these mods, the bar works great with no noise.
#14
Originally Posted by silversprint,Jan 21 2006, 03:19 PM
I have a used saner bar. Since I no longer have an S I can sell it.
PM me if interested.
PM me if interested.
#15
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Great input everyone. Like I suspected, there are people who hate the bar, and those that think it's reasonable. I will double up on what aronparsons said, paying over $600 bucks on a stationary piece of solid metal just seems... atleast a little awkward to me...especially if the Saner comes anywhere close. I'd be willing to bet it's a small margin. Silversprint, I too am very interested in your bar. MikeC, I'll have no hard feelings if you already purchased it but I'd like a shot at it. Thanks everyone!!!
#17
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[QUOTE=silvershadow,Jan 22 2006, 08:44 PM] at the same time as machining down the ends of the bar, you install McMaster Carr endlinks, as they are a lot more robust than the endlinks provided by Mr. Saner.
#18
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Originally Posted by Iceman1,Jan 23 2006, 07:56 PM
how much would you have spend on the new endlinks and grease zircs? is there a site where i can buy them?
#19
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#20