RS-3 vs Z1SS vs 595 RS-R vs RE-11 vs Z2 vs Rivals
#271
Thread Starter
Most of us take the gain in rolling resistance to increase our cornering and average speed around the track
This may also be why it's so difficult for me to get a 300 mile tank
This may also be why it's so difficult for me to get a 300 mile tank
#272
I use OEM wheels with RS-3's for autocross / track, so my priorities for a street tire are very different. I would totally accept a reduction in lateral grip in order to increase straight line accelleration and fuel economy.
#274
Originally Posted by takchi' timestamp='1310666610' post='20779671
I don't quite understand why you want to sell the RS3s for the Sumitomo HTRZ-2. If you're running only public streets, then it's probably better to just set your alignment square at -.5 degrees of camber and 0 toe to save your tires. Just have RS3s are backups for anything faster than daily driving to work.
BTW, these are 225/40-18's front and 265/35-18's rear. My previous tires were 225/40-18 front and 285/30-18 rear. I realize that part of the reason why my car feels slower is due to the 265/35's being taller than the 285/30's, but the road torque graph I posted above already accounts for that.
#275
Originally Posted by gernby' timestamp='1310668779' post='20779821
[quote name='takchi' timestamp='1310666610' post='20779671']
I don't quite understand why you want to sell the RS3s for the Sumitomo HTRZ-2. If you're running only public streets, then it's probably better to just set your alignment square at -.5 degrees of camber and 0 toe to save your tires. Just have RS3s are backups for anything faster than daily driving to work.
I don't quite understand why you want to sell the RS3s for the Sumitomo HTRZ-2. If you're running only public streets, then it's probably better to just set your alignment square at -.5 degrees of camber and 0 toe to save your tires. Just have RS3s are backups for anything faster than daily driving to work.
BTW, these are 225/40-18's front and 265/35-18's rear. My previous tires were 225/40-18 front and 285/30-18 rear. I realize that part of the reason why my car feels slower is due to the 265/35's being taller than the 285/30's, but the road torque graph I posted above already accounts for that.
[/quote]
Dude, You're not going to school me on physics. I've been on 18's for 34K miles, and this is my 4th set of 18" tires. I did not change my wheels or alignment during the 3 days that passed between the 2 torque plots above. It is the tires, and only the tires, that caused this ~6% drop in road torque. As I said before, I have hundreds of torque plots from before the tire swap, and have probably 25 torque plots from after the tire swap, and they ALL show the same drop in road torque.
I'm not complaining about the tires because I wish my car was faster. I'm asking if you guys have noticed how much power the RS-3's soak up.
#276
Originally Posted by takchi' timestamp='1310671993' post='20780113
[quote name='gernby' timestamp='1310668779' post='20779821']
[quote name='takchi' timestamp='1310666610' post='20779671']
I don't quite understand why you want to sell the RS3s for the Sumitomo HTRZ-2. If you're running only public streets, then it's probably better to just set your alignment square at -.5 degrees of camber and 0 toe to save your tires. Just have RS3s are backups for anything faster than daily driving to work.
[quote name='takchi' timestamp='1310666610' post='20779671']
I don't quite understand why you want to sell the RS3s for the Sumitomo HTRZ-2. If you're running only public streets, then it's probably better to just set your alignment square at -.5 degrees of camber and 0 toe to save your tires. Just have RS3s are backups for anything faster than daily driving to work.
BTW, these are 225/40-18's front and 265/35-18's rear. My previous tires were 225/40-18 front and 285/30-18 rear. I realize that part of the reason why my car feels slower is due to the 265/35's being taller than the 285/30's, but the road torque graph I posted above already accounts for that.
[/quote]
Dude, You're not going to school me on physics. I've been on 18's for 34K miles, and this is my 4th set of 18" tires. I did not change my wheels or alignment during the 3 days that passed between the 2 torque plots above. It is the tires, and only the tires, that caused this ~6% drop in road torque. As I said before, I have hundreds of torque plots from before the tire swap, and have probably 25 torque plots from after the tire swap, and they ALL show the same drop in road torque.
I'm not complaining about the tires because I wish my car was faster. I'm asking if you guys have noticed how much power the RS-3's soak up.
[/quote]
Ahh sorry man. 6% is just a lot of power to be sapped out of your car. Frankly I don't notice it even if I swap out to different tires. It's possible the sidewall stiffness plays a huge part in it. RS3s are crap compared to the mentioned tires in the thread. RS3 = soft tread + soft sidewalls. As for car feeling slower? Maybe weight? Rotational inertia? I'm not sure. Have you tried NT01s or slicks to compare?
#277
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: MS Gulf COast
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Hey all, I'm looking for the best rain tire without to much compromise on dry ground. This is for daily driving on street too. Right now I have federal brand that Honda installed and today while exiting the interstate going 40 I downshifted with a little rev match and next I know i was sideways..literally a foot from the back end of an suv. I've noticed while in rainy weather with the TC on it still slides very very easy. Any suggestions?
#278
Thread Starter
Hey all, I'm looking for the best rain tire without to much compromise on dry ground. This is for daily driving on street too. Right now I have federal brand that Honda installed and today while exiting the interstate going 40 I downshifted with a little rev match and next I know i was sideways..literally a foot from the back end of an suv. I've noticed while in rainy weather with the TC on it still slides very very easy. Any suggestions?
Perhaps something like the RE760 is better suited for you.
#279
Ahh sorry man. 6% is just a lot of power to be sapped out of your car. Frankly I don't notice it even if I swap out to different tires. It's possible the sidewall stiffness plays a huge part in it. RS3s are crap compared to the mentioned tires in the thread. RS3 = soft tread + soft sidewalls. As for car feeling slower? Maybe weight? Rotational inertia? I'm not sure. Have you tried NT01s or slicks to compare?
#280
Im not familiar with running 18s but if youre on the street, why such low tire pressure (30psi)? Most people who run RS3 form what Ive read up the tire pressure because of its soft sidewalls.
I usually max out my PSI on the street when I drive to and from the track on my NT01s.
I usually max out my PSI on the street when I drive to and from the track on my NT01s.