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Old 04-22-2011, 02:30 AM
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I think the main point about the taitec fit is the seat can't go as low if it is too wide. You may also need the recaro brackets instead of the taitec ones.

Gt motoring can get you setup though. They seem to have lots of experience with this.
Old 04-22-2011, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by scareyourpassenger
Looks more like bad penetration. A small tack weld done right will take a ton of abuse.
I can't remember who, but someone sells a buddy club type of low seat rail that is bolted together instead of the small spot welds. It is either Evasive or F1spec. I will find out.

Jim
Old 04-23-2011, 06:29 AM
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I pulled the trigger and ordered a recaro spg to fit the taitec rails. Now I have to wait a month for it
Old 04-23-2011, 01:50 PM
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To add to the BC rail discussion. I think it is also important to note mounting your harnesses to the car, not the rail. The drivers side rail will allow you to screw the right side eye bolt to the rail for the harness. I opted to drill through the transmission tunnel and bolt my harness completely to the car, and no portion of the harness is bolted to the rail. This is with my SPG and Schroth Profi II 6-point.
Old 04-24-2011, 06:14 PM
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Note that the Recaro Pole Position does NOT fit between Buddy Club rails. My head still dropped 2.25" from the position of the stock seat, but the seat will not touch the carpet. I was disappointed to see that it won't bottom out on the floor, but I'm still happy after dropping that much. You'll also need some washers for the front bolts as the holes in the rails are really big.

I figure the cost difference of these to the Taitec ones more than makes up for the cost to have them welded properly. I really hated that you need two hands to adjust the Taitecs. With a wide seat it's a serious pain to get a hand on the rail adjuster beside the trans tunnel.
Old 04-24-2011, 06:45 PM
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East Bear Sigma reclinable (R34 GTR seats)
5'7
30 waist
170lbs
short and ripped haha

I custom made the low pro rails. One of the best seats ive ever sat in. great support, can drive for hours with no problems. Been running them for 3 years now
Old 04-25-2011, 09:25 AM
  #177  
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I am not sure the BC rails would pass fia but I would think the taitec would have a better chance since there is less of a chance of the rail moving on you by accident. Having the adjustment locks on both sides sure seems like a safer idea.

Unless you are buying a cheap seat the extra cost of the taitec isn't that bad. I have also seen that the j's rail looks very similar
Old 05-03-2011, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by captain_pants
Note that the Recaro Pole Position does NOT fit between Buddy Club rails. My head still dropped 2.25" from the position of the stock seat, but the seat will not touch the carpet. I was disappointed to see that it won't bottom out on the floor, but I'm still happy after dropping that much. You'll also need some washers for the front bolts as the holes in the rails are really big.

I figure the cost difference of these to the Taitec ones more than makes up for the cost to have them welded properly. I really hated that you need two hands to adjust the Taitecs. With a wide seat it's a serious pain to get a hand on the rail adjuster beside the trans tunnel.
I finally got the seat fully installed this weekend. I abandoned the Buddy Club seatbelt receptacle mounting point. It's much too far forwards to be safe. I have a feeling this is a standard issue with many rails as the ideal location is right around where a side mount seat attaches to the rails. I made my own bracket off the rear inside seat bolt to located the receptacle much further rearward, and just below the rolled edge of the Pole Position seat. The receptacle simply does not fit between the center tunnel and the rolled edge of the seat.

Note that the upper sliding portion of the BC seat rail contacts the rear inside bolt on the floor. This means it doesn't slide very far rearward. I tried another bolt that was lower profile but no luck, and I couldn't find an M10x1.25 bolt in a button head locally. Luckily I like to sit closer to the wheel than most, but those that like to have the seat really far back will have issues. For reference, I recall I had the stock seat about 4 (maybe 5) clicks from all the way back. The BC rail and Pole Position in the furthest back position (hitting the bolt) is about the same distance to the wheel/pedals.

I also had to bend the slider-release-bar (whatever it's actually called) pretty heavily to clear the lower front edge of the seat and the floor.

If I could do it all again I'd buy a set of Sparco rails, make the appropriate brackets to mount to the car, and get a pro to weld it all up.
Old 05-03-2011, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by captain_pants
Originally Posted by captain_pants' timestamp='1303697685' post='20503103
Note that the Recaro Pole Position does NOT fit between Buddy Club rails. My head still dropped 2.25" from the position of the stock seat, but the seat will not touch the carpet. I was disappointed to see that it won't bottom out on the floor, but I'm still happy after dropping that much. You'll also need some washers for the front bolts as the holes in the rails are really big.

I figure the cost difference of these to the Taitec ones more than makes up for the cost to have them welded properly. I really hated that you need two hands to adjust the Taitecs. With a wide seat it's a serious pain to get a hand on the rail adjuster beside the trans tunnel.
I finally got the seat fully installed this weekend. I abandoned the Buddy Club seatbelt receptacle mounting point. It's much too far forwards to be safe. I have a feeling this is a standard issue with many rails as the ideal location is right around where a side mount seat attaches to the rails. I made my own bracket off the rear inside seat bolt to located the receptacle much further rearward, and just below the rolled edge of the Pole Position seat. The receptacle simply does not fit between the center tunnel and the rolled edge of the seat.

Note that the upper sliding portion of the BC seat rail contacts the rear inside bolt on the floor. This means it doesn't slide very far rearward. I tried another bolt that was lower profile but no luck, and I couldn't find an M10x1.25 bolt in a button head locally. Luckily I like to sit closer to the wheel than most, but those that like to have the seat really far back will have issues. For reference, I recall I had the stock seat about 4 (maybe 5) clicks from all the way back. The BC rail and Pole Position in the furthest back position (hitting the bolt) is about the same distance to the wheel/pedals.

I also had to bend the slider-release-bar (whatever it's actually called) pretty heavily to clear the lower front edge of the seat and the floor.

If I could do it all again I'd buy a set of Sparco rails, make the appropriate brackets to mount to the car, and get a pro to weld it all up.
I have my seat back as far as it can go on the buddy club rails with no issues of hitting anything. I'm 6'2 so i need all he room i can get. I also did not have to touch the slider handle. what year is your car? My AP1 had none of these issues with using the pole position seat and buddy club rails
Old 05-03-2011, 10:30 AM
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I had the buddy club rail and pole position in my last s2k (05 ap2) and had no issues either. Everything worked just as it should. I did have to modify the seatbelt receptacle though. I had to cut the very bottom off and drill a new hole so that it didn't sit as high.

I just ordered a another one for my new s2k and I'm going to see if I can't find a way to run it through the inside harness hole.


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