question about brakes
#1
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question about brakes
I attended my first track event last year at Gingerman and after doing so have decided I'm in need of a brake upgrade. My pedal turned to mush during the event and stayed that way until I had them bled at Honda. I want to continue to occasionally track my car and auto-x but my primary use is street first, then track/auto-x.
With that said I know I want to flush and replace fluid with something that can withstand temps better.
**Fluid**
What fluid would you all recommend for my situation? Again, thing primarily street here with around 4-6 track/auto-x events per year.
**SpeedBleeders**
Since I'm a one man operation I would like to use speedbleeders for their convenience. Is there a recommendation that you all have? I have checked www.speedbleeder.com and might pick these up unless you all have other recommendations.
**Pads**
I'm thinking of just sticking with stock pads, especially since they are quite affordable. Do you all feel that the stock pads will be inadequate given the fact I cooked the OEM brake fluid? Or will upgraded fluid and stock pads suffice? Prices for OEM pads seem to be about 1/10th the cost of performance pads, but I may be ignorant here so please correct me if you feel there are pads which are a good combination of price/performance
**brake lines**
what about steal braided lines? Are these worth changing while I'm flushing the brake system?
Thanks in advance to all that respond.
With that said I know I want to flush and replace fluid with something that can withstand temps better.
**Fluid**
What fluid would you all recommend for my situation? Again, thing primarily street here with around 4-6 track/auto-x events per year.
**SpeedBleeders**
Since I'm a one man operation I would like to use speedbleeders for their convenience. Is there a recommendation that you all have? I have checked www.speedbleeder.com and might pick these up unless you all have other recommendations.
**Pads**
I'm thinking of just sticking with stock pads, especially since they are quite affordable. Do you all feel that the stock pads will be inadequate given the fact I cooked the OEM brake fluid? Or will upgraded fluid and stock pads suffice? Prices for OEM pads seem to be about 1/10th the cost of performance pads, but I may be ignorant here so please correct me if you feel there are pads which are a good combination of price/performance
**brake lines**
what about steal braided lines? Are these worth changing while I'm flushing the brake system?
Thanks in advance to all that respond.
#2
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All these topics have been discussed to death, so do a search.
Fluid: Upgrade. I use ATE SuperBlue/Gold. Motul is also good, evidently
SpeedBleeders: Absolute must for a 1-man shop
Pads: Depends on the track you run. OEM are fine for auto-x, but on a brake-heavy road course will not be up to the task. www.gofastlab(s)?.com has good prices on some good track/street pads, but you might be better served with a set of dedicated track pads. My Ferodo DS2500s got cooked in 2 days at Buttonwillow
Brake Lines: Don't bother. They're not stock-class legal (SCCA), and they don't do a darned thing.
Fluid: Upgrade. I use ATE SuperBlue/Gold. Motul is also good, evidently
SpeedBleeders: Absolute must for a 1-man shop
Pads: Depends on the track you run. OEM are fine for auto-x, but on a brake-heavy road course will not be up to the task. www.gofastlab(s)?.com has good prices on some good track/street pads, but you might be better served with a set of dedicated track pads. My Ferodo DS2500s got cooked in 2 days at Buttonwillow
Brake Lines: Don't bother. They're not stock-class legal (SCCA), and they don't do a darned thing.
#3
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I would not run the stock pads on the track if you've attended an event where you cooked the fluid and/or the pads. You can get a set of dedicated track pads and switch from OEM to track before and after the event.
#4
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Originally posted by payneinthe
All these topics have been discussed to death, so do a search.
Fluid: Upgrade. I use ATE SuperBlue/Gold. Motul is also good, evidently
SpeedBleeders: Absolute must for a 1-man shop
Pads: Depends on the track you run. OEM are fine for auto-x, but on a brake-heavy road course will not be up to the task. www.gofastlab(s)?.com has good prices on some good track/street pads, but you might be better served with a set of dedicated track pads. My Ferodo DS2500s got cooked in 2 days at Buttonwillow
Brake Lines: Don't bother. They're not stock-class legal (SCCA), and they don't do a darned thing.
All these topics have been discussed to death, so do a search.
Fluid: Upgrade. I use ATE SuperBlue/Gold. Motul is also good, evidently
SpeedBleeders: Absolute must for a 1-man shop
Pads: Depends on the track you run. OEM are fine for auto-x, but on a brake-heavy road course will not be up to the task. www.gofastlab(s)?.com has good prices on some good track/street pads, but you might be better served with a set of dedicated track pads. My Ferodo DS2500s got cooked in 2 days at Buttonwillow
Brake Lines: Don't bother. They're not stock-class legal (SCCA), and they don't do a darned thing.
Cobalt makes a very good hot street/track pad which is reasonably priced. Hawk makes the HP Plus (NOT HPS) which is for similar usage. If you're going to be getting serious about tracking the car then there's no substitute for a dedicated set of track pads but that is likely overkill for you now. I don't recommend using a real track pad on the street though as they will make for an unpleasant experience due to noise, dust and rotor wear.
#6
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get some race pads and some good Dot 4 fluid (motul, ate super blue) and you are good to go. The stock braking system is more the adequate for a stock engined S2000 on pretty much any kind of tires.
I do lots of HPDE events with Panther Plus pads and either ATE or Motul fluid and R compound tires (toyo RA-1's). The major consumable is the brake fluid (i recommend changing it fairly often if you are running hard) and maybe the rotors. If you are ok with changing rotors I wouldn't mind running a pad that is hard on the rotors...our rotors are hella cheap.
I do lots of HPDE events with Panther Plus pads and either ATE or Motul fluid and R compound tires (toyo RA-1's). The major consumable is the brake fluid (i recommend changing it fairly often if you are running hard) and maybe the rotors. If you are ok with changing rotors I wouldn't mind running a pad that is hard on the rotors...our rotors are hella cheap.
#7
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The Axxis Ultimates are a good combo pad. I find they work fairly well for dual track/street duty... While they do wear fast if you go really fast (I normally use race pads) the dust they put out isn't super cement and I haven't gotten them to go away in a frightening way.
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#8
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This is all great feedback everybody, thanks. It looks like I'll be getting the speed bleeders, ATE Super Blue. Still up in the air on which pads to get but I'll get dedicated track pads as all of you suggest.
So the next thing I'm planning on will be the brake fluid flush. I have used the search and found some good threads on this. I know to start at drivers front and then clockwise around the car.
I'll probably get help from a mechanic friend for the first time but I do have a couple of questions about bleeding brakes in case he is unavailable.
1. I'm assuming that I can just replace the current bleed screws with my speedbleeders withought much worry.
2. I have read that 1l is enough for a full flush and possibly a couple of bleeds. Would you all agree?
3. Is it important to submerge the tube in additional brake fluid in the fluid capture bottle ? I believe this was recommended for non speedbleed screws to keep air from returning back into the system.
4. I plan on pumping the brakes until the level is low, add fluid to full, repeat until I see the ATE blue coming out (diff color). The just go through each corner clockwise. I have a feeling the first side will take the longest as the ATE makes its way through the master cyl and the rest of the system.
thanks again!
So the next thing I'm planning on will be the brake fluid flush. I have used the search and found some good threads on this. I know to start at drivers front and then clockwise around the car.
I'll probably get help from a mechanic friend for the first time but I do have a couple of questions about bleeding brakes in case he is unavailable.
1. I'm assuming that I can just replace the current bleed screws with my speedbleeders withought much worry.
2. I have read that 1l is enough for a full flush and possibly a couple of bleeds. Would you all agree?
3. Is it important to submerge the tube in additional brake fluid in the fluid capture bottle ? I believe this was recommended for non speedbleed screws to keep air from returning back into the system.
4. I plan on pumping the brakes until the level is low, add fluid to full, repeat until I see the ATE blue coming out (diff color). The just go through each corner clockwise. I have a feeling the first side will take the longest as the ATE makes its way through the master cyl and the rest of the system.
thanks again!
#9
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1. Be quick so as not to let too much fluid get out
2. 1L worked for me
3. Dunno. I just swapped to the speedbleeder first, then flushed
4. Yes, the first corner takes FOREVER
2. 1L worked for me
3. Dunno. I just swapped to the speedbleeder first, then flushed
4. Yes, the first corner takes FOREVER
#10
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Originally posted by payneinthe
3. Dunno. I just swapped to the speedbleeder first, then flushed
3. Dunno. I just swapped to the speedbleeder first, then flushed
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