Triple-H

Now is a nice time to tell me J.P.

The pic shown does not have the extra hole for the short phillips screw or the hole to run a bolt in to push off the rotor from the hub if needed, do the G3000 rotors have those features?

I just may have to give these a try at the end of the season when I replace my rears, but for now all I need are fronts and I just got the Honda ones recently. Thanks though for the heads up, the price is very attractive and I'm just anal enough the rust on the insdes of my wheels really bother me...

cdelena

Bedding is not that difficult, just follow pad manufacturers instructions, usually a series of decels from 70 or 80 that I do on the service road next to the freeway close to my house.

I have never had good luck with compromise pads and just mount my track pads and drive to the track. Depending upon the track, laps, and your driving they may not last all that long. I have gone through a set in a very hard weekend at TWS... just the price of playing the game.

Street pads (maybe those just a bit more grippy than OEM) are fine for autoX where track pads are not really appropriate (can't keep the temp up).

Ludedude

Mark, thanks for your order. Just one note in case it wasn't clear on the site: The Spec-VX is not shipping yet. It should be later this month but we dont' have a firm date or I would have announced it publically already. If it's OK with you I'll hold the order until I can ship it complete? If not I can ship Spec-Cs or Hawk Blues right away.

You can do your bedding in a large parking lot or deserted freeway at night

As far as removing them and replacing them in the same spot, that would be ideal but in reality, the rotor/pad interface will be different each time you change a pad out for a different compound before/after an event so I wouldn't worry too much about it.

cdelena

It takes very little track use to generate enough heat to destroy that plating. Don't count on plated rotors to stay rust free.

You can paint the unswept area and it will hold up much better than the plating. Remove the rotors, clean and use a rust treatment, paint with header paint (anything with a 1200F+ rating), bake in the oven at 500F for an hour. They will look good even with track use.

Ludedude

Yep, which is why the G3000 rotors are painted, not plated They hold up fine to track use.

mikegarrison

There are two parts to bedding. One is transfering a layer of pad material onto the rotor. This can be done at highway-legal speeds. But do use an empty road, because it involves repeated almost-ABS almost-stops, and you are likely to get rear-ended or trigger a road-rage incident if other people see you doing it and don't know what you are doing. This can also be skipped and just accomplished by careful management of your first few laps on the track.

The other part is getting the pad up to full temperature so that it will properly outgas, and you avoid "green fade". I've found this is very hard to do legally, except on a track. So with knowing that this will be an issue.

One option is to take your new set of pads to the track, follow the bedding instructions, and pull back into the paddock to let the brakes cool down and/or change them. If you are in run groups, one way to do this is to put the new pads on just before your final run group of the day, then sacrifice your final group to bedding the pads.

YMMV, just find something that works for you.

mikegarrison

It's not that easy to find a suitable spot for doing this in the Puget Sound area.

mikegarrison

I don't worry about it at all. In fact, I've at times mixed and matched used pad sets just looking for the best four (all the same compound, of course).

124Spider

If bedding the race pads is really very similar to bedding the GTS pads, I do live just a litttle over a mile from a nice, untraveled rural road with a 45mph speed limit. At 11:00 last night, I did not see another car while I did the whole bedding thing, and didn't even have to use my brakes getting the car back to my garage. Of course, the only real disadvantage of this location is that the nice burning smell from the new brakes being used hard quickly gives way to the heavy manure smell which permeates the valley down there.

Do I gather that one doesn't really need a track to properly bed the race pads; a deserted, fairly high-speed road will be quite sufficient?

jerrypeterson

Bleeding your brakes regularly will even out the front/rear wear on the pads. The likely reason that your rear pads are wearing out faster than your fronts is that you have a little air builing up at the front calipers. Be mindful to bleed your brakes every few track sessions, and you'll get optimal performance from the pads and maintain brake bias.