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I agree with the brake fluid and pads but to be honest, just concentrate on driving your first 5-6 events on stock pads, tires, etc and use the money instead to sign up with Speedventure as much as you can and learn to drive the car first. I drove a completely stock S2000 and had no problems with the brakes and tires. You wont be going that fast to really need race pads yet. Again, seat time is the most important as a beginner. Just make sure you get an instructor in the beginning otherwise you will not learn the correct techniques and you will never be fast. Lastly, read up on driving, a good book is Speed Secrets. bill
Few questions:
1)How easy is it to change the brake pads on track day?
2)Should I just worry about the fronts, or the rears too?
3)Can race brake fluid be used for street?
4)What about brake lines (stainless braided, etc.)?
Few questions:
1)How easy is it to change the brake pads on track day?
2)Should I just worry about the fronts, or the rears too?
3)Can race brake fluid be used for street?
4)What about brake lines (stainless braided, etc.)?
Thanks!
1) With practice, it is easy. However, I prefer to do it the night before and the night after, at home in my garage. But you should be ready to do it at the track as necessary.
2) Both! Using unmatched brake pads will negatively affect your brake balance.
3) Yes, but it is recommended to be flushed at least once a year as opposed to every three years which is the factory recommendation for stock fluid.
4) They are nice, but not necessary.
-- I've run 25 track days on street tires, and only now am really feeling like I have run out of tires. YMMV. Since I never have run on R-compounds, I can't tell you for sure whether that experience has helped or not. But definitely don't feel like you have to (or should) go to R-compounds right away. In fact, many books and instructors will tell you that you can learn faster on street tires than R-compounds, because the stickier tires are too forgiving and conceal many driving errors.
Also, I was running out of OEM brake pad heat capacity on my second track day. This will vary depending on which tracks you run on.
Originally Posted by mikegarrison,Mar 9 2005, 02:01 PM
Do you get all your pads, fluids, tires, gas, rotors, etc. for free too? Or do you still have to trade money for mods against money for driving?
I buy my mods, but for the most part my car is close to stock; as in OEM suspension. I don't think a lot of money needs to be added to the car to enter a world of education and fun - I believe Honda got it very good at the factory. I believe most people have a ton of work/education to do before they get to a point where they are getting all the performance the car has in it. Brakes and tires are essentually where my money goes.
The cap/thermo/fan switch makes no difference on the because they don't increase the cooling capacity of the car, you're thermo's gonna be fully open by the end of the 2nd lap.
Assuming your car is stock, as you get faster, the brakes will be the limiting factor.
Do a search under "brake cooling" or "brake ducting". Brake cooling, pads, brake lines and fluid have shifted the weak link to the OEM S0-2 tires. I switch to race pads and flush the fluid before every track day. I'm not the fastest, but I have a blast and the brakes no longer limit my fun. Good luck.
Front ducting:
The following are rear.(optional) I remove these when not on the track
you don't think your thermostat is open completely after about 1-2 laps on any non winter day? That shit is for stop and go traffic, it makes no difference on the track.
I realize you aren't gonna listen to logic on this so I'll stop now.
HotRod:
Brake ducting is a must for the harder driven cars, but I be you could go 6moths to a year w/o it.
03-09-2005, 09:25 AM
