PilotSH

Kewl, it looks like you're running nearly zero toe, which is what I hope to do with the rear bar off. It's lighter AND less wear on the tires


James Yom

josh7owens

So after reading the thread i got...

around 2.5 camber all the way around
0-1/16 rear toe in
no rear bar
big front bar

about 100lbs spring differnce between front and rear

IE- 700f/600r 800f/700r ect

what about front toe?

vla

Ok for trackracing, why is it preffered to remove the rear swaybar ??? Im driving a AP1 but when i remove the rear swaybar, wouldnt the car be even more tricky (tailhappy) to drive ?

I tought that keeping the rear swaybar stock, and upgrading the front swaybar to a stiffer/bigger swaybar would help a lot to prevent oversteer.

jguerdat

No rear swaybar will introduce understeer, not oversteer. The big front bar is (somewhat) equivalent to keeping the stock front and removing the rear. And removing the rear bar allows the wheels to droop more under cornering, keeping the tires more firmly in contact with the road surface, eliminating inside wheel spin.

PedalFaster

Both of those actions (stiffening the front sway bar or softening the rear sway bar by removing it) would increase the ratio of front roll stiffness to rear roll stiffness, making the car more inclined to understeer.

Billj747

Did the OP ever state what tires he was running, what conditions (street, track, autoX, etc...) and any other pertinent information?

TheNick

We figured it out Billy. No worries.


Most of us know Matt and the setup he is running. National Champions don't necessarily need to start every thread with all those details

markhs2

I would like some input on this:

From what I understand;

If you put in a bigger front sway bar this will give the car less of a tendency to oversteer but it will also stiffen the front roll rate in relation to the rear roll rate.

In race cars they try to keep the roll rate front and rear pretty close by adjusting the front and rear sways. If you disconnect the rear bar there will be a very large difference between the front and rear roll rates which seems counter to what race car suspension software would tell you to do.

Thanks for your input

TwoRs

This is something that I am trying to get a better idea of as well.

Trying to get balance, I have a STOCK '00 that will have RE01R's on stock 16" wheels.

I have not tracked this car but have many laps in other cars. I have instructed at HPDE's and competed at a National level in Solo II, but have been out of the car scene for several years and have been getting my speed fix on a trackbike in the advanced group.

This will be this cars first outing at any level.

I would like a good base line, starting point without going to coil overs and or swaybars just yet.

I have been running a UK alignment on the street. The car turns well but I would like it to be more settled in the rear....at all times.

What would the suggested track only starting point be? I will have the alignment settings set before the TD and then set them back after.


More negitive up front, now it is at 1.0neg, a little tow in the front. now at 0? More negitive, now at 2neg in the rear with 0 toe, now at .25 in IIRC?

I have searched, read, proccessed.....no solid direction without someone saying it needs a bigger bar or no bar or, or, or......

The event is at Barber Motorsport Park and is very challenging with constant radius high speed turns and elevation changes.

Thanks for any help!

ZDan

Stock '00? I'd say max out camber front and rear, zero front toe, and ~0.3-0.5 degrees total rear toe (more if you're concerned about stability, less if you're concerned about rear tire wear).

The early AP1's handle a little goofy, my first time out in mine (stock '01) I found that the handling wasn't linear like my 240Z at all. The AP1 (particularly early AP1's) gives an initial oversteer lurch, followed by neutral handling as the outside rear toes in with body roll. Just don't give abrupt inputs at the wheel at turn-in, and for God's sake don't lift if the back end feels a little squirrelly!