glagola1

Seriously, what are you guys (AP2) doing to get rid of mid corner and exit push? 255s non-staggered... stock front swaybar.

yikes

SC_Highlander

Granted, my car is a completely different animal, but when I ran no rear bar, I ran higher spring rates in the rear. I tried 700F/800R, 800F/950R, and 950R/1200R. I also had a saner bar on full-soft that the time, and ran my rear shocks firmer (in both compression and rebound) than the fronts.

glagola1

What did you stay with?

blackey

The rear swaybar is worth about 100lbs in spring if you do the calculations.

glagola1

Somehow the calculations are missing the effect of negative spring on the inside wheel or something... cause the car sure doesn't act like it's only 100lbs of spring.

Forcednduckshn

Why not try going with an adjustable rear bar that allows you to go slightly softer than the stock bar in the back? (Not sure if such a bar exists) Or try the same approach with the front bar (adjustable to softer than stock.)

glagola1

I like the idea of a softer than stock rear bar but I also like the idea losing that weight and have the rear wheels decoupled for maximum exit grip.

Forcednduckshn

Yeah, understood. Perhaps try more camber in the front? (And if that fails, reduce camber in the back?)

ZDan

Think I'd throw the rear bar back in and go to a stiffer front bar and more negative camber up front.

SC_Highlander

I put together a rear bar with speedway engineering and mcmaster-carr parts for around $175 or $200. It's a 5/8ths inch solid bar with straight aluminum arms. I had to cut the arms to length and drill holes for the endlinks. I think the whole shebang weighs around 4lbs. As the car sits today, it's on 950/950 springs, saner on full soft and the 5/8ths rear bar on full soft. I went to even spring rates front-to-rear when I added the rear bar.